All posts by Chris Gibson

#WildEssexWalks: hunting the Elves – in Cockaynes Reserve

We went in search of Elves and were certainly not disappointed!

Our first walk of the year, to Cockaynes Reserve, was a most enjoyable event. We got off to a rather damp start but the rain soon stopped and the sun came out –  it was so nice to have the chance to catch up with some of our old friends in this familiar and well-loved place.  This time all proceeds are going to the Save the Old King George Oak appeal and we would like to thank everyone for their contributions – all monies now forwarded via the Crowdfunder page. If you would like to read Chris’ wise words about this whole shenanigans you can via his blog Saving Wivenhoe’s Old King George Oak Tree | Chris Gibson Wildlife.

And so to the Elves (rather the Scarlet Elf-cup fungus) – wow, what a wonderful display this year! Many times more than we have ever seen in the past 14 years of living in Wivenhoe- indeed possibly since Chris first found them here in 1986.  Unsure why – maybe the disturbance caused by the remaking of the path a couple of years managed to spread the spores, or the damp spring has just made their existence more viable? Whatever the reason they were a joy to behold, and seemingly spreading to previously Elf-free sections of Villa Wood. A truly iconic species for this reserve.

And these were not the only fungi to be found. Turkey-tails and Maze-gills  were on rotting stumps and King Alfred’s Cakes and Jelly Ears on Ash and Elder trees respectively.

Within the lush mossy greenscape alongside Sixpenny Brook (running very muddy after the overnight heavy rain), there were flowering Hazel bushes, male tassels in abundance, while Jude found one plant in which the little red female flowers were just emerging.  There were also Lesser Celandines (some with beautifully marked leaves, variegated in both black and silver) and the first Opposite-leaved Golden-saxifrages in flower, always good to see as a sign that Spring is just around the corner.

Elsewhere, plant-wise it was a pleasure to see Gorse in full flower (well, kissing IS in season 😉), Winter Heliotrope on the side of Ballast Quay Lane, as well as early-flowering Red-Dead-nettles and Common Field Speedwells, as well as the tentative spikes of Bluebell and Wild Arum leaves pushing up.

Out on the heathy areas, it was too early for flowers, but the spore-capsules of the Juniper Haircap moss made for a splendid vista among the Reindeer Lichens.

Spring was in the air with bird life at every turn including flocks of Goldfinches, Linnets and Chaffinches, and Skylarks singing along the path up to the reserve; while there at least three Song Thrushes serenaded us, plus Wrens, Robins and a Chiffchaff (the first we have heard this year – so early in the season it must have stayed here all winter, rather than migrating as they did of old). Mixed bands of Great, Blue and Long-tailed Tits rampaged through the woods and scrub, and generally gave the impression of Nature waking up in anticipation of Spring!

We feel we have well and truly kicked off our Wild Essex season and look forward to the next event next month (bird watching starting at Manningtree Co-op).

Saving Wivenhoe’s Old King George Oak Tree

Setting the scene

There is a tree in Wivenhoe that everyone knows. It is a Pedunculate Oak, with a hideous straitjacket of tarmac right up to its trunk, in the public car park at the bottom of the King George V field, the former front lawn of the long-gone Wivenhoe Hall.

This tree can be seen from vantage points across the town: even at nearly a kilometre from our flat, it is the tallest feature on our north-western skyline, except for St Mary’s Church. It is seen by everyone parking, playing in the park, walking past on the way to and from the station, or sitting in the window of the Greyhound Pub.

It is not the oldest of trees, maybe 180-200 years old, nor the most stately. But it is truly iconic to the people of Wivenhoe. It began life as a boundary tree of the Wivenhoe Hall estate, and then when little more than a sapling in 1863 witnessed the excavation of a precipitous gorge just a few tens of metres away – the arrival of the railway. Around that same time, a row of houses, Clifton Terrace, was built on spoil from the cutting lying over a slippery clay subsurface, between the tree and the railway. If ever there was a situation for storing up problems for the future it was this: general migration railwaywards could have been foreseen. Thankfully there were plenty of trees along the Hall estate boundary, which in full summer flow transpired huge volumes of water from the clay surface into the air, but despite this the terrace has long been subject to movement and instability, in many of the buildings necessitating underpinning.

In the later decades of the 20th century, when Wivenhoe Town Council assumed responsibility for the car park from Colchester, town councillors were steadfast in their defence of the tree, by now part of the village psyche.

But no longer, it seems. Bullied by Aviva, insurers for a couple of the properties on Clifton Terrace, Wivenhoe Town Council were told they would be responsible for costs of works to subsiding properties if they did not remove what the insurers saw was the cause of subsidence – this tree and two of its neighbours.

This has rumbled on for three or four years, but sadly every stage has been shrouded in secrecy, all council decisions made in secret (Nolan principles, anyone?), and with pitifully little public consultation, especially with one large and important constituency – the people of the village who know, love and benefit from its reassuring, life-giving and life-affirming presence.

 

Drawing lines in the tarmac

It’s only a tree, there are hundreds more in the woods‘ screamed the unthinking. Well, actually three trees, and perhaps a hedge, but yes, why focus on this minority? But it is much more than a tree, it is an iconic tree. As with every mature oak, it has a huge set of values, from cleansing the air, to absorbing carbon dioxide, to sustaining biodiversity: in time (decades rather than days), those values could be replaced by ‘compensatory’ plantings. But what of the deficit built up year on year – perhaps the time needed to make this up as well would be centuries rather than days.

There are also irreplaceable attributes, those that are location-specific, putting ‘green’ into the lives, hearts and minds of everyone who sees it. As has been conclusively demonstrated up the road at the University of Essex, the value of greenspace to our physical and mental wellbeing is largely unmeasured in economic decisions, perhaps unmeasurable, but certainly very significant. How much would the collective blood-pressure of Wivenhovians rise were these trees to be killed? And of course the other location-specific values, as mentioned above: the megalitres of subsurface water that they disperse into the atmosphere by evapotranspiration in the summer, along with shade and shelter for parkers and play-parkers alike.

Location-specific values simply cannot be ‘compensated for’ by measures taken elsewhere. The trees are therefore irreplaceable assets, and so any decision to remove them must be based on the highest evidential standards – it must be established beyond reasonable doubt that they are causing the harm that is alleged.

Central to all of this is evidence. Evidence that Aviva say it has, but is withholding. So we are talking not just about a tree or three, but a point of principle, a matter of justice and democracy itself. Vested interest should never be in the role of prosecution, judge, jury and executioner without all empirical evidence being available for public scrutiny; to do otherwise is but a kangaroo court.

‘Evidence’ withheld is evidence that is inadmissible in any system of jurisprudence. Indeed, one has to question why it is withheld. Data protection? That is what redaction is for. Because it doesn’t support a pre-judged narrative? Because it simply doesn’t exist? Who knows – we certainly don’t, as Aviva and the council have hitherto retreated behind a cloak of secrecy.

But if released in entirety, and it can be demonstrated beyond reasonable doubt that that the trees are the substantive and substantial cause of the harm they alleged to be causing AND it can be demonstrated that the risks of felling to a whole row of properties are lesser than the risks to one property of not felling AND it is shown there are no equivalent, non-terminal solutions, we would reluctantly accept felling as necessary…

A war of peace

Everything came to a head in the second week of January. A few days previously, notices had been placed around the car park saying it and the toilets were to be closed ‘for essential maintenance’. No mention of felling the tree but by now we were alert to the intended execution, planned for 13th-15th January.

The security fencing arrived, but before it was completed, we moved in peacefully (as we remained throughout). And so the Tree Protectors’ (defiantly not Protestors’) movement was born. It grew organically, each adopting the role best suited to their skills, and providing 24/7 protective cover at the tree in all weathers, as well as other essential roles, including publicity, fund-raising and crucially a team to negotiate our case with the council, supported by our barrister Paul Powlesland. The way it all came together made me wonder just how much more successful the Suffragettes could have been if they had the organising power of WhatsApp (assuming they, as we did, rapidly developed ways of securing their networks against spies and lurkers).

Nearly five weeks followed when we got to know the car park and the tree intimately. We forged friendships within our group, and positive relationships with most in the town. We were peaceful, and there was barely a raised voice in opposition. Of course there were some opposing views, mainly around the closure of the car-park and public toilets, although as became clear when last week tree surgeons moved in to trim the trees, the closures were a matter of Council choice rather than a necessity.

Sitting by the oak, day and night, provided lots of opportunity for observation. The tracery of the branches, whether against grey skies or blue, sunlight or moonlight, dripping with rain or wreathed in tendrils of mist. The birds using it: Robins and Great Tits singing in the branches, Woodpigeons sitting in it, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Jackdaws and Long-tailed Tits passing through, and Red Kites and Buzzards flying over. Tawny Owls hooting. Muntjacs barking and Foxes yelping and scenting at night. And many more…

We saw the buds begin to swell as sap started to rise; the marcescent patches of retained leaves, rustling in every breath of breeze; got to know the mosses and lichens, the bark-life. Worlds within a world. As our friend James Canton said: ‘some 2300 species rely on oaks – and one of them is us!’

 

The creative flowering

From the very start, the oak tree was clad in knitwear, its own protective veil, along with kids’ drawings and good wishes – appropriately so as one of the main reasons we put ourselves through the cold and discomfort was for those who come after us.

And very soon, other creative pursuits followed. Many thousands of photos must have been taken, some of which will be showcased in the Old Grocery gallery on 1st and 2nd March. Martin Newell contributed a couple of very powerful opinion pieces to the East Anglian Daily Times. Poems and songs were composed and performed. And then there were the visual artists, many of whom were evidently inspired by the place of the oak tree as the green heart of town – here, the lovely depictions from Richard Allen and Lorraine George.

The Age of Reason, the Age of Treason?

All in all, this was a celebration of community, sadly at odds at times with those democratically charged with serving that community. It was as if we were rediscovering the radical spirit of Essex: from Boudicca, Cnut and Wat Tyler to Billy Bragg, support for striking miners and dockers, protests against live animal exports. Folk memories that say so much more about our county than the political bigotry of the recent past.

Standing up for facts and evidence, rather than truth being what those who shout loudest or have deepest pockets say, we helped the trees past their original execution date of 15th January, then the ‘absolute final’ (spurious) Aviva demand of 1st February.

Then after two weeks on tenterhooks, of stony silence, of raised hopes cruelly dashed, on St Valentine’s Day not a massacre, but the news that our negotiation team had achieved its objective of a legal stay of execution, six weeks initially, giving time for the Protectors to examine the ‘evidence’ used to justify a death sentence and to advocate alternative solutions. All we ever wanted! In return, we agreed to vacate our Peace Camp… which we did in a matter of hours, leaving it in a cleaner state then when we arrived.

‘Twas an evening of much celebration!! We had won the first battle of the peaceful war.

 

Postscript

With ink barely dry on the ‘agreement’, within two days we were plunged back into turmoil. The clause in the agreement to allow us to contribute a list of preferred contractors to undertake a degree of crown reduction was reneged upon: the contractor and date were announced next working day, due to happen three days later. Purely by happenstance, the preferred contractor, Tree & Lawn Company, was high on our list as well…

Then it was announced the trees would be netted, clearly a provocative act, signifying the intent to fell the trees after the expiry of the stay of execution without legal hindrance from nesting birds. We were in Disneyland Paris at the time, so much of the queueing time was spent keeping abreast of fast-moving developments, and attempting to advise from afar. But Reason eventually prevailed…

And so to the two days of crown reduction, nothing worse than a sharp haircut. T&LC did a wonderful job, in a spirit of cooperation and openness – we cannot praise them highly enough: they clearly love the trees they are charged with maintaining. Their investigation of the Horse Chestnut for roosting bats with an endoscope was exemplary. OK, so our tree is no longer the tallest kid on the block from our flat, but they left sufficient wispy twigs that it will green up well this summer, and within a couple of years should regain its pre-eminence from our viewpoint.

If it is allowed to live.

 

 

Think not ‘crown reduction’ but ‘crowning’ of a queen. Indeed, if it survives, this will be the Crowning of our May Queen when the leaves emerge after a tumultuous winter.

There is still much to do before we get to that stage, but I have hope. We can make a case for the primacy of evidence, open for all to examine and interpret. Surely that is a fundamental tenet of a civilized society?

Following crowning, the trees will need to recover, and the oak especially needs a helping hand. Breaking up the tarmac at its base to allow water in will reduce the need for its roots to forage widely as it recovers. This brings added benefits from reduced root damage by vehicle movements, and gives opportunities. Let’s get those kids who supported us from the outset back to plant woodland bulbs at its base, say Wild Daffodils, Wild Garlic and native Bluebells, as a positive signpost to the future after the Protectors, those on Wivenhoe Town Council and the grasping shareholders of Aviva are gone and forgotten.

And then there is the other long game. Aviva seems to be a serial offender in this sort of case across the country. Yet it is sponsoring the Woodland Trust in a big way, and at least for the forthcoming Chelsea Flower Show, the Wildlife Trusts! Blatant blood money, egregious greenwashing! C’mon, this is just not acceptable. Wildlife Trusts, Woodland Trust – would you accept money from Russia, tobacco or Big Oil? Thank you to the Essex Wildlife Trust for supporting our cause, but your umbrella body is frankly not fit for moral purpose. Would they accept funding from a convicted rapist for a women’s refuge? I rest my case.

A cod translation of ‘A-viva’ from Greek and Latin would produce ‘without life’. Enough said…

 

 

 

 

 

Epilogue

The fate of the tree is not yet known. There is much work to be done and many more tales to be told. Tales of politics and people. Unexpected kindnesses, threats and intimidation. Friendships lost and a tribe gained. A community coming together, but with deep divisions. Support and betrayal. The misuse of power and the power of the collective. Of elation and despair. Facts, evidence and reason against secrecy and half-truths. A story of a tree that became three trees, then THE trees and finally OUR trees. A very modern love story but one as old as Nature herself…

The online petition is still available to sign at Petition · Save Wivenhoe’s Old King George Oak Tree – Wivenhoe, United Kingdom · Change.org. At the time of writing it has nearly 4,300 signatures, probably mostly local, and pretty impressive for a population less than twice that.

Likewise there is a crowdfunder Save Wivenhoe’s Old King George Oak tree – a Environment crowdfunding project in Colchester by Save Wivenhoe’s Old Oak Tree. Heading towards £10,000, this is needed to provide legal advice and technical expertise necessary to achieve our aim of securing this community asset. The crowdfunder is due to close in a  week’s time, but an alternative will be provided: we will need the funds if we are to have a chance of helping the Town Council stand against the overwhelming bullying of Aviva.

The tree still stands. And spring is bursting, albeit slowly… 

Disneyland Paris: a world away from our normal life!

And so for our (first) February break, we decided to head to Disneyland Paris – not, you realise, for ourselves but as a treat for Eleanor. At the age of seven, we thought it was time! Eurostar to Lille and then TGV straight to Marne-la-Vallée – Chessy was all very efficient, and gave us a sense being abroad, with changing church architecture and electricity pylon design, along with the most dense Mistletoe populations we have ever seen.

Disneyland was pretty much as expected: brash and busy, albeit perhaps not as rammed as we feared. But still plenty of people there, hence the interminable queues, to get in, to go on the rides, to eat or drink. One has to admire the business model that charges a large sum of money to get into the park, then you spend 80% of your time standing in line…but at least it was calm and sunny, if cold. And the smile on Eleanor’s face made it all worthwhile…

    

But as everywhere there are nuggets of delight for anyone with an eye to see it. Personally my favourite ride was ‘It’s a Small World’. Notwithstanding the psychedelic/nightmare sight and sound of hundreds of dolls singing, it really chimed with my worldview of harmony and diversity (and couldn’t help but wonder just how much Donald Trump must hate it!).

And while we were queuing for that the pastel shades of the façade made a very pleasing reflected liquid mosaic on the water:

Around the parks, the plantings are generally ecological as well as robust and ornamental, including a good range of early nectar and pollen sources.

And every tree was planted within a rain garden to help it survive and thrive – trees were very much in our minds with our previous month of tree protecting back home, and news of rapidly unfolding events on WhatsApp (this saga will be the subject of a future blog!).

We stayed a short shuttle bus (free) ride from the main resort, in a B&B Hotel (a chain we have always found to be to our liking) on the edge of Magny-le-Hongre, a very pleasant retreat from the razzmatazz of the parks.

It is one of a series of hotels stretching around an inviting greenspace with a large reed-fringed lake at its heart, home to Cormorants, a Kingfisher, Great-crested Grebes and Rose-ringed Parakeets.

 

But after three nights, it was homeward bound, and an hour exploring the wonders of Marne-la-Vallée – Chessy station. Ultra-modern inside, with interlocking escalators giving an impression of being inside a work by M. C. Escher …

… whereas on the frontage is the retained façade from a previous Brutalist incarnation, now repurposed into homes for House Martins.

Except of course it wasn’t: Wikipedia indicates the TGV station was opened in 1994, concurrent with the theme park. As with all things Disney, all is not what it seems – the edifice is artifice!

 

 

 

 

Oh, we do like to be beside the seaside! : from Frinton to Walton…

The sun was (sporadically) out, the onshore wind not too cold or too strong, so what better to do than head out by train to Frinton-on-Sea.

It was a delightful walk along the greensward and prom to Walton-on-the-Naze although wildlife experiences were pretty limited: flowering Gorse (although many still in fuzzy ‘burnt’ bud), sprouting spring-green Alexanders (a month or so from flowering, but already bejewelled with the rusty galls of Puccinia smyrnii), mosses catching the rays, Sunburst Lichens and seaweeds were most of what we could muster …

 

… along with a few Brent Geese out at sea, Robins singing and Sanderlings skittering along the distant tideline.

So a great opportunity simply to take lots of photos, of sea and sand, groynes and pier, shadows and light, and the iconic beach huts graduating from restrained pastel shades in Frinton to the joyous diversity of Walton! Photos only, no commentary needed…

  

And all wrapped up with an excellent lunch and pint or two in The Victory – the makings of a fine day out!

The Wild Side of Beth Chatto Gardens: Spring starts here!

As the winter closure comes to an end, we can start looking forward again to the return of light and life.

And the early flowers are doing just that: from snowdrops and snowflakes, to daffodils and hellebores …

… and especially the ‘choirboys’: Winter Aconites with cheery faces surrounded by a ruff of lobed bracts. The yellow ‘petals’ are actually petal-like sepals, while the petals are tubular nectaries: the nectar they contain, together with pollen on the stamens, is the reason why whenever the sun is out, the Woodland Garden is abuzz with insects.

Not just low down – there are also small shrubs and low trees flowering, including Sarcococca, Cornelian-cherry and Spurge-laurel, all extravagantly scented to attract such insects as are active at this time of year.

And yes, there were insects out and about on my visit last week, mostly hoverflies and blowflies. A good number of Marmalade Hoverflies and a few Seven-spot Ladybirds, both major predators of aphids, bode well for the waves of munchers our garden will rely on over the coming summer.

Of course they can appear so quickly and so early only if they are able to hibernate nearby, which is where our policy of not being too tidy, or too quick to clear away the dead growth from last summer, comes into its own. And given the fact that we may not yet have seen the back of winter, hibernation sites need to be left in place for at least another month.

That is not to say that the team has been idle over the winter! Regular visitors will see one big change – the wooden kiosk has now gone – and the oak tree, THAT wonderful oak tree, a boundary pollard from ancient times can now breathe and be appreciated properly from every angle.

The wait is now over. The gardens re-open on Tuesday 4th February, and thereafter Tuesday – Saturday 10.00 – 16.00, and half price entry during February. Come along and see Spring unfold and enjoy the wildlife it brings with it! Tickets can be booked here: Entrance – Beth Chatto’s Plants & Gardens

See here for details of all my planned activities in Beth Chatto Gardens over the coming months: Beth Chatto Gardens – activities and events | Chris Gibson Wildlife

A Winter Weekend in London

Especially in winter, it isn’t always possible to have a break that goes according to plan: flexibility is the watchword! And so it was last weekend, when it was our intention to introduce Eleanor to some of the delights of west London, especially the London Wetland Centre at Barnes, following our lovely trip there on equivalent dates last year…

Firstly, weekends mean the risk of rail replacement buses. And this time it was all the way from Witham to Newbury Park, and an additional hour of travelling time each way. But it did give us the chance to sit under one of the iconic structures of Modernist design, the Newbury Park bus station canopy, in the best lighting conditions: it was shaping up to be a lovely sunny day.

It was still lovely and sunny when we exited the tube at Putney bridge, casting shadows on walls and lighting up the seedheads of Common Reeds by the river.

Moving past the church, we came to into Fulham Palace, itself an impressive building…

…but just as impressive was the walled garden, where on the south-facing wall Clematis cirrhosa ‘Freckles’ was in full, rampant flower and drawing in all manner of insects, most notably lots of queen bumblebees.

Otherwise in the sunny warmth, insects were being attracted to other winter-flowering shrubs such as Mahonia and Laurustinus, while irises, hellebores and snowdrops were there waiting to welcome spring.

In the grounds, there is plenty of dead wood, especially in the natural play area, where various jelly and bracket fungi and King Alfred’s Cakes were all fruiting profusely.

From there it was a lovely walk along the bank of the Thames to our hotel for the night in Hammersmith. This was just across the river from London Wetland Centre and had its share of waterfowl, including numerous dabbling Teals in the shallows:

All that and the frankly obscene number of planes dropping into Heathrow. Has nobody heard of climate collapse? This day of sun was unexpected, coming hard on the heels of storm Éowyn, widely reported as one of the strongest storms ever to have hit our islands. Extremes upon extremes… when will we wake up and take some responsibility for those who will come after us?

As the evening progressed and new weather warnings started to come through, the sting in the tail of Éowyn (or maybe the first vestiges of Storm Herminia?) … the names don’t matter, but the forecast was for much more rain and very strong winds. So next day we decided not to head to the windswept wilds of Barnes, and instead in to the relative shelter of central London, a chance to show Eleanor something she had just learned about at school (the Monument) and iconic buildings like the ‘Walkie-talkie’.

We have planned to take her there at some time, up to the Sky Garden at the very top, but today it was closed, so we continued on to Canary Wharf where the Docklands Museum and especially the Crossrail Place Roof Garden kept us busy, interested, dry and sheltered.

One of the great things of London of course is that there is so much to do, much of it free, such that plans can often be flexible right up to the last minute to help mitigate the worst of our weird weather.

—————————————————-

Eleanor, as so often, was happy everywhere so long as she had a camera to help her navigate through life. And she had three, both our phones and Papa’s bridge camera, all of which were used often deliberately and appropriately.

I may be biased (#ProudPapa) but I just loved her successes, hearing the joy in her voice as she captured the approaching train. Or the pigeons. Or the squirrel ( “it looked at me!”).

The way she explored interesting details of and perspectives on the world around us …

And new for this particular trip her evident fascination with repeated patterns and distinctive textures, both man-made …

 

… and found in nature.

It is a genuine privilege to try and perceive the world as her seven year-old eyes and brain do.

 

The Somerset Levels in Midwinter

A flying visit to Somerset to meet with Naturetrek colleagues took us on to the Levels on a gloomy, moisty, still day, the sort of day when the quacking and whistles of ducks fill the air with a gentle hubbub, pierced only by the squeals of Water Rails.

Flocks of Wigeons were on every pool, with a few Tufted Ducks on the deeper waters, together with a male Ring-necked Duck that has found itself on the wrong side of the Atlantic.

Two decades since I’d been there at this time of year, and there have been changes in that time, especially in the increase in Great White Egrets, and the appearance of flocks of Cattle Egrets among grazing stock – the sort of sight twenty years ago you would have had to have travelled half way to the Mediterranean to see. But one thing has not changed, the thing we were here for, at 4PM on the dot on Ham Wall, the vast murmurating flocks of Starlings flying in from every direction…

I have seen murmurations here a couple of times before but never like this. Vast amoeboid flocks whirling around, estimated this year at 2-3 million in size, the whoosh of their wings as they bank in unison, the praeternatural blanketed silence as a flock moves overhead (don’t look up!)…and almost as wonderful to hear was the evident appreciation of so many hardened Naturetrek leaders to delights on our doorstep.

One reason for such huge flocks is predator confusion, and so it proved. The Marsh Harriers were having none of it, keeping low over the reeds; similarly one could almost feel sorry for the Buzzard trying to wade its way through the melée on its way to roost. A Sparrowhawk too kept well below the radar, and only a Peregrine made any headway, though as expected the swirl of myriad wings confounded its hunting purpose and prowess.

We stayed overnight in Wells, but had only an hour the next day to see it in daylight.

Suffice to say, I was very impressed with the city, and Jude and I are already planning a return visit to explore it in more depth. The Swan Hotel was just the sort of place we love to stay. It’s just a pity there is no train station, but I guess that’s what buses are for!

Benton End & Wolves Wood

Last summer I was very excited to be invited to Benton End, the former home of Sir Cedric Morris, the acclaimed gardener and artist. The house and garden, close to Hadleigh (Suffolk), were well known for gatherings of the great and good in the artistic and gardening worlds of the 1950s, with guests ranging from Lucian Freud to Benjamin Britten to Beth Chatto.

Cedric died 40 years ago since which the house and especially the garden have been neglected. But now under the ownership and guidance of the Garden Museum, both are being restored with a view to opening to the public in 2026. It was an unrelentingly grey day for my visit, hence the dingy photos, but still the garden was very interesting as it is gradually tamed from the neglect of the decades…

For a start, the cracks in the paving around the house were colonized by a few choice plants, including Deptford Pink and Tunic Flower:

Round the back it was equally informal and delightful:

And so into the walled garden where the first steps are being taken to return it to its heyday, albeit inspired by its past rather than being a slavish copy: feature trees such as the old Judas-tree are being retained, borders and beds are being restored, and plants bred by Cedric or otherwise associated with him will be returned to their home.

This still leaves space for natural grassland, sown with Yellow Rattle to suppress the grasses, and with Field Garlic growing happily through. An interesting plant this: a native onion of the sloping edges of valley grassland (as here), it is found mainly well to the west and north of East Anglia. There is a scattering of localities in Suffolk and Essex mapped in the BSBI Plant Atlas 2020, though none are shown as occurring beyond the end of the 20th century: could this be an overlooked survival?

Outside the walled garden there is an even larger area of grass, scrub and woodland for the garden team to play with!

It was not good weather in which to find insects, but I have no doubt this wonderful enclave of non-farmed land in a sea of agricide supports a good selection. One thing we did find was the bud gall of Germander Speedwell, caused by the gall midge Jaapiella veronicae. Although widely scattered across Britain, the NBN Atlas suggests it is rarely frequent (except perhaps in the ‘home range’ of active recorders?) and there are only a dozen or so Suffolk localities.

Getting it back into a state appropriate for public viewing will be a long and arduous task. But the signs are very hopeful: I was entranced as I was shown around by the team, including Head Gardener James Horner. And importantly, all is being done without pesticides or herbicides. This is undoubtedly what Cedric would have wanted: one of his most activist paintings is ‘Landscape of shame‘, produced in response to the pesticide-driven killing fields of  the1960s, which sadly continues to this day.

Landscape of Shame, c.1960 © Tate Gallery

I look forward to returning, and anyone interested should keep an eye on the website A plantsman’s paradise – Benton End House & Garden Trust for open days and plans to open more widely. Thanks to all for the invitation, and sorry the blog has taken so long to appear!

___________________________________________________________________________

While in the area, and despite the gloom, I decided to have a nose into Wolves Wood RSPB reserve, a place I haven’t been for more than a decade – my last visit memorably being the occasion of hearing my last Lesser Spotted Woodpecker in Britain! It is a lovely ancient coppice wood, although I don’t remember the very intrusive traffic noise – perhaps I have just become old and intolerant?

Sitting on glacial clays, the car park has signs proclaiming it as a ‘wet wood’, and ”wellies advisable’: well, in late July that was not quite necessary, but there were certainly some wet patches following our damp spring and early summer.

And the vegetation very much reflected those conditions, the fenland flora at its best now in open clearings, in contrast to the long-past spring peak under the tree canopy: there was Meadowsweet, Square-stalked St John’s-wort, Creeping Jenny, Lesser Spearwort, Greater Bird’s-foot-trefoil, Marsh Bedstraw and Marsh Thistle among many other species.

And as always there some other interesting finds to report, most notably a gall on the leaves of Meadowsweet caused by the gall-midge Dasineura pustulans. The NBN Atlas shows this to be largely western and northern in distribution, with only the one Suffolk site, near Bradfield Woods, while there are none from Essex and only a scattering in Norfolk, despite the frequency of the host plant.

Both sites are well worth a visit, and together make a fine day out in mid-Suffolk. I look forward hopefully to heading over the border again in the coming summer!

 

 

#WildEssex New Year Plant Hunt 2025

Each year, the Botanical Society of Britain & Ireland organises a New Year plant hunt, encouraging botanists and other interested folk out of their midwinter slumber to see what plants are flowering. And traditionally this has been our first #WildEssex event of the year, a walk around Wivenhoe Waterfront on New Year’s Day. Sadly not in 2025: as seems to be getting more frequent, we were subject to a severe weather alert for strong wind and heavy rain so for reasons of comfort and safety we took the decision to cancel.

All data collected in this citizen science project are fed into the national record of what is flowering at this time: for more information see New Year Plant Hunt – Botanical Society of Britain & Ireland (bsbi.org). It is good to be part of a bigger project to aid learning about how British and Irish wildflowers are responding to climate change, so it is fortunate we did a recce a couple of days prior to our planned walk, applying the same rules, and more or less following the same route as in previous years.

Our recce produced the ‘usual suspects’, shrubs that routinely flower in the depths of winter and annuals that flower at any time of year: Gorse, Hazel, White Dead-nettle, Groundsel, Annual Mercury, Shepherd’s-purse, Hairy Bittercress, Sun and Petty Spurges and Common Chickweed were among those we found, together with Daisies and Dandelions sparkling sparsely in lawns. 

Some of the older walls and brickwork supported Mexican Fleabane, Trailing Bellflower and Ivy-leaved Toadflax, while other showy plants included Green Alkanet, Greater Periwinkle, Pot Marigold, Sweet Violet and Common Knapweed.  And it was quite a surprise to find Ivy flowers still open in places.

Along the waterfront itself, in the cracks of the block paving, Four-leaved Allseed is more abundant than it has ever been since its arrival here around the time of the pandemic, but try as we might we could not find any in actual flower. But other subtle flowers such as Guernsey Fleabane and Pellitory-of-the-wall made it onto our list after close scrutiny, a real test for my newly-decataracted eye! The rapidly spreading Water Bent also increases in abundance every year.

On the salt-marsh, a few Sea Aster flowers remained from late summer, and some spikes of Common Cord-grass dangled their naughty bits wantonly to the wind. But much more dramatic were the very numerous, huge fruiting bodies of Cord-grass Ergot, a fungus we found around here less than a decade ago and which now seems very prevalent.

Carrying on the seaside theme, three plants we have not recorded before on these forays are garden escapes that have put on their first flowering appearance outside the confines of cultivation: Sea Campion and Rock Samphire, native plants of sand and shingly beaches, and Sweet Alison, a familiar bedding plant, but often found wild in coastal areas, as reflected in its scientific name Lobularia maritima.

All in all, 37 species in flower represents a new high for us (see full list here New Year Day PLANT HUNT Year on year) compared with 34 in 2024, 23 in 2023, 35 in 2022 and 30 in 2021, although one should fall short of celebrating – many of these plants should not be flowering now, and are doing so only because of the harm we have inflicted upon our climate…

But our feeling was that while we saw more species in flower, there were fewer flowers of each species to be found: the landscape was much less floriferous, more akin perhaps ‘proper winters’ of decades past. I got exactly the same impression at Boxted the day previously where I led a village wildflower walk for the second New Year in succession.

There is of course another way of looking at it. Plants are not the only things responding to climate change: although we saw no insects being active in the dully, foggy weather of our walk, it is undeniable that fewer insects are hibernating than used to be the case. And year-round activity needs year-round nectar and pollen resources, so any insect-attracting flowers such as Gorse and dead-nettles are important, even in the context of much richer supplies inside our gardens, as for example the gorgeous, subtly showy blooms of Virgin’s-bower Clematis cirrhosa.

While there is a little turnover of species year upon year, in some way there is also comfort to be found in the litany of names, old friends in many cases, even down to actual individual plants, recited in a ritual that echoes that of the Shipping Forecast. In spite of our best efforts at self-destruction, the world still turns! Happy New Year!!

 

 

 

BOOK REVIEW Cull of the Wild: killing in the name of conservation by Hugh Warwick

Cull of the Wild: killing in the name of conservation by Hugh Warwick
Bloomsbury Publishing | March 2024 | ISBN 978-1399403740 | Hardback 304 pages | £19

Cull of the Wild: Killing in the Name of ConservationThis is a book that should be required reading before anyone is even allowed to engage in debate about conservation ethics. By ‘debate’, of course I mean the expression of opinions about complex, nuanced topics, such as ‘is it right to kill to conserve?’, the sort of polarized views we all too quickly fall into especially
through social media. So, Hugh Warwick has done us all a favour in exploring these and related issues through a series of case studies, both close to home and further afield, without shying away from asking hard questions, of himself and others, and crucially not averse to modifying his own views on the basis of objective evidence. Surely this is a desirable position for us all to adopt, the primacy of fact over opinion?

My fear is that some may find its initial delve into hard-core philosophical principles hard going and off-putting. That discussion is important, but my advice would be to read the first chapter once, and then again after reading through a few of the case studies that follow – it all seems to come together then and make much more sense.

As the narrative of the book expands, so the philosophical conundrums, challenges and considerations expand, from the simple ‘should species x be killed to benefit species y’, to ‘if objective evidence suggest the answer to the above is yes, then what are the primary considerations? Effectiveness? Targeting? Compassion?’. All very important considerations
and ones that benefit from the basic ethical premise of the author, a long-term vegan.

There are also interesting explorations of things we could all usefully learn from in all walks of life, especially conflict resolution through empathy. The section from page 68 is an especially powerful few pages covering the cull of the wild that accompanies attempts
to ‘conserve the shooters’ privilege’ – the killing (legally and otherwise) of predators that have the temerity seek a share of the landscape overloaded with pheasants, a landscape within which the birds themselves conduct their own culls, of invertebrates, snakes etc. All to create a crop of birds themselves to be killed. Devastating reading, especially when one
sees how it quickly breaks down from illegal killing of predators to death threats against human beings.

Only at the very end of the book did the subject that is my personal red line emerge: trophy hunting, the selling of killing and legitimisation of the taking of trophies to demonstrate ‘prowess’, in order to fund the conservation of other individual or species. In my view, that is nothing short of rewarding psychopathy. The author’s position throughout the book is to maintain objective distance to avoid polarization, but on this topic of trophy hunting he observes that there is no common ground to be found: ‘some things are wrong’, an insight provided by a professor friend who said ‘fundamentally, I believe that ethics should precede science’.

If the above comments suggest the book is austere and worthy, sorry. It is not! The author has the most engaging style, full of gentle humour, weaving anecdote and dialogue into even the most potentially distasteful topics (for some). And in doing so, making it all so much easier to swallow, like washing down syrup of figs with malt whisky. Not everyone
will want to grapple with the contradictions and conundrums, but those are the very folk who should do so if we want a society built on consensus instead of conflict.

Reviewed by Dr Chris Gibson FBNA and BNA Trustee

First published in BNA News Bulletin Issue 22 November 2024, p 24.

 

 

A flying visit to Maidenhead

Our final short break of the year took us to uncharted territory: Maidenhead. While the main reason was a friendship visit, at least the river frontage of the town has always looked alluring, even at high speed, on our rail journeys further west….

… so we booked for a night into the Thames Riviera Hotel, ideally situated on the Thames bank, between the 18th century stone road bridge and Brunel’s 19th century brick railway bridge. The hotel was very comfortable, if uncannily quiet, and did provide us with a sumptuous evening meal: for two of us, lamb shank at its melt-in-the-mouth best.

Next morning we explored the river and its environs. After a sharp frost, it soon got really quite warm in the solstitial sun as we ventured over the border into Buckinghamshire at Taplow. Down leafy lanes, Ivy berries were ripening nicely for late winter bird food and Old Man’s Beard was catching every drop of the low light in its shaggy halo.

Our breakfast destination was the Lake House Café, overlooking a watersports lake, and so probably a whole lot more relaxing at this time of year when the only residents were the ducks, Cormorants and Coots! Breakfast was excellent, as were the views, ever-changing cloudscapes reflected in the tranquil waters.

Then we walked up-river, alongside the Jubilee River, a major flood-relief, only 25 years old but merging seamlessly and naturalistically into the landscape, in a series of habitat improvements designed to offset the effects of developments within the river valley:

Willows and roses were covered in overwintering gall structures, Mistletoe was everywhere, and Red Kites wheeled and mewled around in remarkable numbers, some taking time out in the bankside trees…

Then it was back to the Thames and its islands and locks. Ray Mill Island had more kites, Egyptian Geese and sweetly scented Winter Heliotrope, flowering alongside a remarkably late blooming Ivy bush.

From there it was a very pleasant stroll through the back lanes into the town centre. What of Maidenhead? Well at least it has a clock tower …

Actually, that is unfair. We thought that might be all that there is to it, until in our last hour when we scratched the surface and discovered the waterways that reach into its heart, right up to the High Street, providing interesting photos and mind-bending reflections, along with Grey Wagtails…

Then there are the sculptures, ranging from this Green Man to a hanging gaggle of bats, the latter to celebrate the filming of a Dracula film in the nearby Bray studios (and the sourcing of rubber ‘models’ from the local Woolworths!)….

And a few interesting buildings like the church below, plenty of shops, and a fine pint in the Bear, an old pub still with atmosphere and life (and cheap beer, being a Wetherspoons).

All in all a very fleeting visit but a worthy end to our catalogue of short breaks in places less visited. Roll on 2025!!

December in Dundee & Perth

Planning short breaks in the winter months is always beset by the short days and of course the risk of inclement weather. For the December trip in our first year of monthly short breaks by train we decided to ignore the weather risk, and simply accept the inevitability of short days (the above ‘sunrise’ photo was taken well after breakfast!) … indeed to face it square on by heading north into even shorter days, and return to Dundee after our fantastic couple of days there last year. The answer is to make the most of good food and drink when it is dark (is that why whisky was invented?) and to take advantage of good short-term weather forecasts and the shelter afforded by museums, churches and trains (and pubs!) to avoid rain, which we did pretty successfully.

With long train journeys bookending our four-day break, it is important to enjoy the travelling. And going north up the East Coast mainline, it is impossible not to enjoy the journey of cathedrals (Peterborough, Durham, York), castles ( Durham, Lindisfarne, Bamburgh, Edinburgh), bridges (Newcastle, Forth, Tay), islands (Farnes, Holy Island, Bass Rock), the Angel of the North and a whole lot more.

So another two nights in the Premier Inn right on the bank of the Firth of Tay: what’s not to love with the low sun only just rising above the horizon, but lighting the Firth in dramatic spectacle?

And it just happens to be a couple of hundred metres from one of our favourite buildings ever, the utterly magnificent V&A. A whale from one angle, the prow of a ship from another, and walking underneath it has all the echoing wilderness of a dripping Scottish sea-cave:

Surrounded by water, it is equally as impressive in reflection…

… and the delights continue after dark.

So impressive that going inside the building is almost disappointing, though the ‘strata’ and (genuine) fossils are a magnificent touch.

As a building the V&A really benefits from the sun creating an ever-changing interplay of light and shade, so it is fortunate that our day and a half of daylight were under blue skies, also great conditions to stroll along the Firth to the Railway Bridge:

The sunlight showed the many monumental buildings in the city centre to their best effect…

… a city centre also filled with public art and sculpture:

 

Churches, pubs (here the Trades House) and the museum provided us with culture and sustenance…

And for us one very special place was the graveyard known as the Howff, a beautifully unmanicured space, where Death begets Life.

But apart from the gulls and Shags on the Firth, the main other wildlife interest was in the adornments of lichens on pretty much every street tree:

Our next move came about at the recommendation of a friendly street-sweeper who out of the blue came up to us and suggested we visit Broughty Ferry, even giving us the details of how to get there by bus. And as we had a couple of hours before the anticipated arrival of rain, it would have been rude not to. A very lovely peaceful fishing village, with harbour and castle, this kept us very happy.

Rock Pipits, Turnstones and a partially albino Carrion Crow fed along the beach, where Sea Mayweed and Sea Rocket were still clinging to flower, and again lichens added their splashes of colour to the harbour walls:

And as the first rain arrived it was into the delightful Ship Inn, where we tucked in to the very best bowl of Cullen Skink just before the kitchen closed, and essentially decided the treat we would try and recreate for our Christmas lunch this year!

We’ve still not done with Dundee! We will be back again. Even though it sits astride the National Cycle Route 1, the very same as I worked with Sustrans to deliver as its first stage through Wivenhoe some 30 years ago,  we are perfectly content to let the train take the strain!

——————————————————————————————————————

All too soon, it was time to head to Perth, the destination for our final night, with dire warnings of Storm Darragh ringing in our ears. Amber warnings were everywhere, for snow just to the north, wind just to the south, and rain all over! And even though the rain came, we largely missed it in the pubs and other place of shelter…

Perth was clearly once a place of considerable wealth, to judge from its buildings, but now it feels as though it has seen much better days.

The same sense of faded glories ran through our hotel (the Salutation), the sight of which on a TV programme originally piqued our interest to stay there – but the excellence of its breakfast in the palatial dining room was undeniable.

The mighty Tay still flows on through Perth, as it has since the city’s heyday, under a lovely sandstone bridge, in which erosion of the sand matrix has left pebbles embedded in relief, like natural braille… what are the rocks trying to tell us?

Lichens once more adorned the rocks and walls, and trees were filled with tseeping Redwings…

And in the backwaters of the mill races (leats) that run though the city, we had excellent views of a Kingfisher, a shaft of brilliance on the dreariest of days.

St Ninian’s Cathedral provided both shelter from the showers and plenty of interest, as did the newly refurbished museum, with some excellent exhibits including the Stone of Scone/aka Destiny in its new permanent home. Similarly the Art Gallery was just the right size, not too big but with enough fascinating art (much by William Gilles) to pass a happy couple of hours.

 

But lunchtime arrived and it was time to head homewards via Glasgow and the West Coast Mainline as the storm raged further south. Yes, we could see the snow settled on higher ground between Perth and Stirling, and quite a lot of flooding, but for us just a few minutes’ delay. Then into England, a points failure at Penrith added to the delay, but all in all it amounted to just two hours. Not bad really given the severity of the storm and the dire warnings that preceded it – and of course, it meant we got our money back!