Blog Archives: Britain’s Wildlife

The Wild Side of Beth Chatto Gardens: a lull before the first storm of autumn…

Beth Chatto Gardens, Britain's Wildlife, WildEssex, WildWivenhoe

Early October can be such a wonderful time. Still warm enough for shorts, still nature going about its preparations for the coming cold, seemingly with increasing urgency. And the first few days of the month this year were just that in the Beth Chatto Gardens, although with the first named storm of the season, Amy, due in a day or two, things could change rapidly… Thankfully I had the opportunity to make a couple of visits, both unfortunately rather short.

For now, the gardens are looking fruitful, showing some of the stresses of a multi-drought summer, but still in fine fettle. And for the insects there are still all manner of nectar and pollen resources out there to be exploited:

The most obvious visitors are still the butterflies, albeit in reduced numbers and diversity. Red Admirals, Commas and Large Whites were the commonest, with a very few Small Coppers, Small Heaths, Common Blues and Holly Blues, the latter by now probably on its third generation of the year.

Likewise, especially around the ponds, dragonflies and damselflies were still noticeable, basking, hunting and mating: Migrant Hawkers over the water, Common Darters everywhere including egg-laying couples in tandem, and Willow Emeralds, again some in mating formation, in the trees and marginal planting.

In the woodland garden, the leaves are colouring rapidly, especially that harbinger of autumnal glory Amelanchier. 

The Oak leaves bear their customary array of galls, here Spangle Galls although the smaller, darker ones may well indicate they have been hyper-parasitized. ‘Big fleas have little fleas, little fleas have lesser...’ etc comes to mind!

Spangle galls are caused by tiny wasps, but the pustular galls on Alder leaves are caused by even tinier mites, Eriophyes laevis.  And this leaf also has a leaf-mine, the manifestation of someone feeding inside the leaf (but not triggering abnormal growth, hence it is not a gall). Leaf-mines can be caused by a variety of insects, from moths to beetles, but this is made by the larva of a leaf-mining fly Agromyza alnivora. One leaf and two identifications without ever seeing the organism, just their symptoms.

A few Ivy plants around the shady areas were, as always, buzzing with life attracted to the vital late-season nectar and pollen source of their flowers.

Hornets were particularly active on the flowers, drinking the nectar for themselves, then flying menacingly through the greenery like  sharks hoping to pounce on an unfortunate insect to kill and take to their nest.

But it is thirsty work being a Hornet! Only males seemed to be visiting this watering-hole.

We don’t have much Ivy in the main part of the gardens, which probably explains why I was able to watch an Ivy Bee feeding on Astrantia. The bees are supposed to feed almost exclusively at Ivy, though in extremis may turn to members of the Daisy and Heather families. Perhaps Astrantia is a good alternative too: after all the Ivy family and Carrot family are closely related, and Hedera and Astrantia share a similar contracted umbel flower form.

By October  the power is draining from the sun’s rays so there are insects to be found basking to warm up. Crane-flies, here Tipula paludosa, seem now to be coming out in reasonable numbers, ungainly fliers and fair game for any insectivorous bird (or dragonfly).

Perhaps this Hairy Shieldbug had selected a sun-warmed bed among the insulating fur of a Cardoon seed-head as its cosy winter refuge?

Otherwise my eyes turned repeatedly to the late-flowering nectar and pollen sources. Honeybees were on a wide range of flowers, especially from the Daisy and Scabious families; bumblebees too, especially Common Carder-bees at the moment, and they can continue flying as it cools, given they have their own fur coats.

And where there’s prey, there are predators, although the success rate of this Flower Crab-spider may well be limited by its choice of backdrop…

It was good to see one of our larger hoverflies, the wasp-mimic Wasp Plumehorn Volucella inanis, an Essex Red Data species that has only infrequently been seen before in the gardens. Until we compile the Beth Chatto biolist I remain at the mercy of my memory, but Google shows me at least one previous example, from August 2023…

Wasp Plumehorn lives as a parasite in the nests of wasps and Hornets. And there are many other parasites that also contribute to keeping natural balance in the garden. One group is the tachinid parasite-flies, such as Tachina fera, whose larvae feed inside lepidopteran  caterpillars.

Then there was another Locust Blowfly Stomorhina lunata. These are scarce immigrants to UK from southerly climes where they breed, their larvae being parasites of locusts. We had one here about eight years ago, and then a small influx in early August this year, so maybe our native grasshoppers and bush-crickets should watch out…

And finally, the real prize of these visits, this gorgeous fly Ectophasia crassipennis, also a parasite, but of shieldbugs. Related to the equally beautiful Phasia hemiptera which was first seen in the garden in late July, when I was otherwise occupied, Ectophasia is even rarer, with only one previous Essex record I know of, and it is the first I’ve seen in this country.

As usual, the Beth Chatto Gardens came up with the wildlife goods. But what was especially remarkable was that my second visit lasted just 15 minutes. And in that short space of time I saw all three of the last-mentioned specialities, AND heard a Cetti’s Warbler singing, another garden first!

 

 

 

Some snapshots of London: Elephant & Castle, Fitzrovia and the Barbican

Britain's Wildlife, Travel by Bus, Travel by Rail

For our September short break it was again a one-nighter, another inspiration from the Guardian series Where tourists seldom tread…: the Elephant & Castle in south London.

Vibrant, bus-rich, a mix of Victoriana right through to Erno Goldfinger’s Modernism and bang up-to-date high-rise glass and steel (including our Travelodge in Ceramic Tower), we were successfully navigated around the sights by following one of the walks on GoJauntly.

Sunday afternoon, the skies were clear blue, and the atmosphere buzzing especially in the East Street market, the perfect antidote to an era of disconnect from food, with fast food deliveries and pristine, overpackaged supermarket fare. The Elephant & Castle pub provided the fuel for our walk, supplemented half way by the very best cup of coffee ever from Hermanos, underneath the arches, one outlet for the Colombian community hereabouts. Highly recommended!

Architectural highlights included the Victorian tenements …

… and workhouse (now a cinema museum) with associated water tower:

The old Southwark Town Hall (now called Walworth Town Hall) is another magnificent historic building, with Art Deco features and a wonderfully wild garden fronting the main road:

The tube station itself is also classic, one of the red-tiled originals designed by Leslie Green, now sporting a green wall on its back side:

The delight of this walk is that it doesn’t take in just the recognised highlights, but other points of interest, from the Victoria sewerage stink-pipes, to the ‘memorial’ metal cladding of an electricity substation to celebrate the life of Michael Faraday, and the backdrop to Dexy’s Midnight Runners’ C’mon on Eileen… just the sort of fascinating randomalia that excites us!

And then of course the green spaces that we always seek out. Around the backwoods of the Cinema Museum, it felt like nothing could intrude on the peace and quiet, remarkably just 2km from Charing Cross, the usually stated centrepoint of London. Buddleia was springing from the margins, Shaggy Soldier from the cracks in the pavement, and in one cracked wall, a seepage colony of ferns and Wall Pennywort (or Navelwort). Typically found in the westerly fringes of the UK, just two localities of the latter are shown in Greater London on the NBN Atlas, both north of the river.

In St Mary’s churchyard, the church long gone, it was a delight to see a group of girls at once intrigued and horrified and thrilled as a Common Darter tried to land on their outstretched hands…

In the allotments, signs of micromoths: the leaves of Figs bore the scars of the Fig-leaf Skeletonizer and scrambling Hops with blotches of the Hop Beauty, another species not shown from Greater London on the NBN Atlas:

The street trees too were interesting, including profusely fruiting Pride-of-India Kolreuteria paniculata and Honey Locust Gleditsia triacanthos, with long purple-blotched pods, as well as Norway Maple, its leaves bearing the mines of the micromoth Stigmella aceris: 

Finally, the newest green space of all, Elephant Park, naturalistic planting, exciting hard landscaping using fully interpreted rocks, formed as a series of inviting nooks and spaces for adults and kids alike: sadly we didn’t have Eleanor with us!

The Elephant & Castle was a great place to spend a sunny Sunday, everywhere the Strata building looking down on us like a benevolent old owl….

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Another blue-sky dawn (unexpectedly so) for our second day, although the breeze delivered an equinoctial chill as we headed out by bus to Oxford Circus to walk the area of Fitzrovia.

In such vibrant light, Broadcasting House was irresistible to the cameras:

Wise words: George Orwell’s should be etched on our hearts as well as the stone. Sadly they are as, if not more, relevant today as when written, but even chalked aphorisms have resonance…

A walk around Fitzrovia and parts of Bloomsbury and Soho took us past many fine photogenic buildings and features …

… but none more iconic of the London skyline than the BT Tower, like the Strata building at Elephant & Castle an old friend peering over our shoulders at almost every step.

When our thoughts turned to food, we made an excellent choice of the Fitzroy Tavern, after which the district was named apparently. Very good food and drink, all in the most sumptuously ornamental surroundings:

 

But the ornamentation of the Fitzroy Tavern paled into insignificance compared with the opulence of the main reason for us visiting the area. The site of the old Middlesex Hospital has now been redeveloped into luxury high-rise, with some attractive public space, but tucked in the middle is the sole survivors from former days, Fitzrovia Chapel, now restored and fairly recently opened to visitors.

Rather unprepossessing from the outside, stepping into that gilded space was like being transported to Italy, without the crowds. Built in the latter years of the 19th century, its Italianate interior is clad with almost Byzantine mosaics and marble, vibrant in the flickering candlelight.

Marble features everywhere, but most remarkably in the wall panels that showcase the inner patterns and colours of the different forms. You can see anything in them, but for me the top two are as different as the fire at the heart of a John Martin dramatic landscape and the Great Wave graphic Japanese art of Hokusai:

A remarkable building and well worth our visit by itself. But surprisingly there was a last delight to come, much more recent in origin. Just outside Tottenham Court Road station we chanced upon the Outernet London experience, immersive spaces of colour and imagery, just as at the Chapel but with added movement and sound. Awe-inspiring in its own digital way, we hadn’t heard of it before, but since it opened in 2022 it claims (on its own website) to be ‘the most visited cultural attraction in the UK’…

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A couple of days later, it was back to London for an afternoon and evening, to see a concert in the Barbican Hall.

The weather was the same as the weekend: sparkling sunshine, producing intense light and shadows: when Brutalism gives its best!

Concrete and sharp edges…

Art …

Historical remnants….

Greenery to soften the lines…

And water to provide life and movement. What’s not to love in the Barbican?

 

The Snails of Jaywick Beach

Britain's Wildlife, WildEssex

In my four decades in Essex, I have avoided Jaywick on all but a very few occasions. Regularly cited as one of the most left-behind spots of the country, it does little to dispel that image with low-rise housing, much of it wooden, cowering behind the sea wall and now clad in forlornly tattered flags of St George…

And indeed, why would it ever pick itself up? Deep in the flood risk zone (it was very badly affected by the 1953 Great Flood, with 35 villagers dead out of the English total of 305), all it would take is a substantial surge for it all to be washed away. Again. Not a recipe for investing in real estate, the fate of edgelands the world over.

But there have been attempts to address this, with Norwegian stone and dredged sand enhancements to the sea defences repeatedly over the past 20 years, hence most of my previous trips there, advising on the environmental implications thereof. The defences may have been improved, the risk reduced, but without a sign of it coming up in the world to my eye. It seems entrenched by its own self-image and lack of ambition, and arguably the judgemental views of infrequent incomers like me…

So why was I there last week? The sea defences have created some remarkable beach and dune habits, rivalling any such coastal sands in the county. The sand has been colonized by Marram, Sea-holly and Sea Spurge, while the more stable areas are now a thicket of Sea-buckthorn, all the vegetation playing its part in sustaining the defences. Lose the roots, lose the sand and lose the protection: this shouldn’t need saying, but apparently there are those who would strip the beach back to bare, mobile sand because ‘the beach looks scruffy’….

Earlier this year, parts of the beach were found to be supporting vast numbers of snails, in the summer cladding the stems of Sea-holly and Sea-buckthorn: this discovery will be reported in detail by Simon Taylor and David Bain in the next edition of the Essex Naturalist, due in December. Such aestivating aggregations are believed to raise the snails away from the severe heat stress conditions of the sand surface, a phenomenon I am very familiar with from my travels round the Mediterranean, but never here.

So I thought I would go and see for myself. Sadly it was not to be: the previous few days had been wet and cool, and I was met not by the sight of the branches clad in snails but of thousands of snails on the move in the respite from ferocious drought.

But what is most significant is that the commonest snail by far was Theba pisana, the White Snail or Sandhill Snail, often striped brown, and usually with a delicate rose-pink flush around its aperture. There were a few examples of the rather similar Striped Snail Cernuella virgata, smaller and generally lacking the pink, together with the larger, browner Garden Snail Cornu aspersa.

While Cornu is ubiquitous, and Cernuella is common enough in calcareous and coastal regions of England, Theba seems not to have been recorded hitherto in the wild anywhere between Dorset and Northumberland. But with such huge numbers, including juveniles, it seems to be successfully established for the moment, although perhaps at the mercy of severe frosts.

The finders’ theory is that it was inadvertently introduced with Marram plants imported from Normandy by the Environment Agency: this country is notoriously poor at biosecurity measures, despite the natural advantages of being an island. That being the case, Theba has likely been present for at least 15 years. As good as reason as any to venture out to Jaywick!

A day out in Sudbury…

Britain's Wildlife, Travel by Rail, WildEssex

The next in our series of explorations using public transport of the towns that are so near to home that they get overlooked in search of more distant delights, following our day in Needham Market a couple of weeks ago, was to Sudbury. Suffolk but almost Essex, in that part of our walk was south of the River Stour which everywhere but here where Suffolk invades Essex would have placed us firmly in the land of the Saxons.

One of the great things about Sudbury is arrival along the Gainsborough Line, from Marks Tey, up the Colne valley, crossing the Chappel Viaduct. Then over the watershed to the Stour valley, through Bures, then arriving into Sudbury. Stepping out of the station, and in just a few paces we were out onto the water meadows, a gentle and pastoral landscape with willow copses and reed-fringed dykes, and just occasional glimpses of the river at its heart.

Thence onto the old railway line, the vital cross link from Sudbury up to Bury, the closure of which must have helped split East Anglia in half, and of course contributed to the dominance of the motor vehicle, one of the least pleasant aspects of the town. Whatever, the old track which continues apparently at least as far as Long Melford provides a very pleasant, tree-lined walking route, with the metalwork of the bridges  providing a direct link to its previous incarnation.

In the dappled shade when the sun came out, the air was thick with the alluring musk of Ivy, and Ivy Bees were still active. Other invertebrates included scavenging Velvet Mites, sun-basking flies like Phaonia valida, an autumnal species with red-brown legs and scutellum, and a Kidney-spot Ladybird.

Galls were everywhere on the tree leaves, from spangles (caused by the gall-wasp Neuroterus quercus-baccarum) on the Oaks, to hairy Eriophyes similis mite galls along the edges of Blackthorn leaves and those of the gall-midge Hartigiola annulipes especially adjacent to the midrib of Beech leaves.

Lots of other symptoms of other organisms in the leaves as well: Beech had leaf-mines caused by the caterpillars of the micromoth Stigmella hemargyrella, Field Maple hosted the related Stigmella aceris (until recently very rare in East Anglia), and Sycamore leaves were blotched with the fungal Tar-spot Rhytisma acerinum.

While galls, mines and blotches are especially a feature of tree leaves, they are elsewhere too: there were mines of the fly Agromyza reptans (or pseudoreptans, as the mines cannot conclusively be separated) and midge galls of Dasyneura urticae on Stinging Nettles. It was only when I looked at the photo later that I realised there was a photobomber, a tiny parasitic wasp, presumably seeking to parasitize the gall-causer: a food chain in a photo!

Crossing and recrossing the river, on one side were the fringes of Sudbury, on the other the open valley…

Thence to King’s Marsh and the Common Lands, much more open, save for the sloe-laden Blackthorn-lined river.

Glaucous Bulrush and Arrowhead indicated at least reasonable water quality, and the open water was teeming with fish. A Little Egret, its plumes whipped up by the stiff breeze, stalked and stabbed, but its only success was a half-aerial lunge when it grabbed and ate a passing Common Darter dragonfly. The neighbouring Grey Wagtail was, quite sensibly, keeping a respectful distance…

Time for lunch: as we were beside the Mill Hotel, what better? And it was a very fine plate of fish and chips for us on this occasion: not even the ‘feature’ of a mummified cat could put us off!

Returning through the town, it was a wander through history. Starting at St Gregory’s Church, it was closed, but the immense flints in the walls provided the backdrop for several bunches of Firebugs. This is a species that is going places, having first colonized mainland Britain only five or so years ago, then found mainly in warmer, coastal fringes, but now spreading further inland. While the NBN map shows no sites around Sudbury, there seem to be few limits on its East Anglian distribution now. And churchyards are a des. res., often containing both of its foodplants, Mallow and Lime.

Flints also featured in a much more modern building, Gainsborough’s House, along with some artistically laid brickwork, bricks fired from clay being the other local building material, after timber and flint. But neither of us being fans of his art, we didn’t venture inside….

Looking down Market Hill, the hipped roofs show the Flemish influence in its development, the persecuted Huguenots settling here and bringing with them the silk-weaving industry for which the town then became famous.

We passed numerous half-timbered houses, then towards the town centre, historic municipal buildings …

… reaching the centrepiece, the former church/now arts centre. And there we learned of the not always glorious history of the town, including its anonymous caricaturing as a rotten borough by Charles Dickens, and its role in the Peasants’ Revolt of 1391. Simon de Sudbury, then Lord Chancellor of England, pushed the peasants too far by introducing a further poll tax, effectively triggering the revolt, and lost his head in the process, now to be found preserved in St Gregory’s Church, apparently, while the rest of him lies in Canterbury Cathedral with a cannonball in place of the head!.

All that was left then was to settle in the sun by the water outside the Quay Theatre, watching Willow Emeralds in the marginal vegetation, while waiting for the train. A fascinating day out, and only 20 miles from home!

 

The Wild Side of Beth Chatto Gardens: autumn plenty

Beth Chatto Gardens, Britain's Wildlife, WildEssex, WildWivenhoe

I expected the final set of Wildside Walks for the year were going to focus upon nature preparing itself for the season to come. And yes, we looked at that although it all felt a bit superfluous as we were experiencing a short-lived, day-long heatwave, with temperatures around 26º Celsius, full sun and a light breeze, truly a (presumably) last blast of summer.

Chiffchaffs were in good song, a fleeting remembrance of spring, but soon quelled by the mournful, minor-key autumnal song of Robins, the twittering overflight of Swallows and the reedy wheezing of Siskins in the Alders. Down at the Reservoir, the Moorhen broods are growing fast, and the Mallards were joined by a pair of Gadwalls in the Duckweed soup…

Also around the ponds, there were still plenty of dragonflies and damselflies, with Common and Ruddy Darters, Migrant and Southern Hawkers, and most numerously Willow Emeralds, with lots of mating pairs fluttering about.

In the borders and beds, Rudbeckia, Verbena and Bistorta were pulling in the butterflies, especially Commas, Red Admirals and Peacocks, along with the ‘cabbage’ whites, and single Brimstone, Painted Lady, Small Heath and Common Blue. Sadly however, the Hummingbird Hawkmoth I had seen a few days previously was nowhere to be seen…

Bees and ladybirds were visiting the ice-plants in particular, always reliable at this time of year…

… and of course Ivy, the autumn pollen and nectar source par excellence. Hornets were everywhere, trawling noisily through insect-attracting flowers and leaping on anything too slow to get out of the way: the wasp in the photo below was despatched in seconds.

As the Sun’s intensity declines, so the importance of sun-basking increases so the insects can go about their business of feeding and breeding without becoming prey themselves. There were tachinid parasite-flies like Tachina fera, various other flies (just look at the covering of pollen!) and parasitic wasps, together with an array of true bugs: Cinnamon Bug, Dock Bug, Hairy and Green Shield-bugs. Plus a long-anticipated new species for the garden: Rhododendron Leafhoppers have been spreading since their arrival in Britain almost a century ago and are found on most local Rhododendron leaves, but not until now within our garden. Rhododendrophiles may hate them as they may help to spread diseases between host plants, but they are undeniably spectacular, while rhododendrons have very limited positive wildlife values. I love the bugs!

At this stage of autumn, our thoughts turn to Oak trees, especially in mast years like this with an abundance of large acorns.

The leaves are starting to look their age, many coated in mildew, nibbled or hosting the internal workings of leaf-mining insects, such as the sinuous galleries of the micromoth Stigmella ruficapitella (or similar).

And then there are the galls, distinctively shaped structures that signify the fact thattiny gall wasps are infecting the tree: Spangle Galls, Smooth Spangles, Oyster Galls, Knopper Galls, Cola Nut Galls and Ramshorn Galls are shown here, the latter also a new record for the garden.

There are of course many other types of gall-causers and leaf-miners, and plant species that exhibit them. The Holly Leaf-miner is a type of fly and the rough, raised galls on Alder leaves are caused by the mite Acalitus brevitarsus.

And searching leaves for galls and mines can also turn up other delights, such as the sputnik-shaped white egg-sacs of a small spider, Paidiscura pallens, again possibly the first time it has been recorded here. Indeed spiders and their webs are always a constant feature of autumn, none more impressive than the common Garden Cross Spider.

And so we come to the end of my Wildside Walks for the year. Thanks to all who joined them, or enjoyed reading about them. I hope they will return next spring: keep an eye on the events page of the Beth Chatto website Courses & Workshops – Beth Chatto’s Plants & Gardens or the page on my own website dedicated to the Beth Chatto Gardens Beth Chatto Gardens – activities and events | Chris Gibson Wildlife.

Autumn in Wivenhoe’s Lower Lodge reserve

Britain's Wildlife, WildEssex, WildWivenhoe

Long gone are the insect-rich days of high summer as Lower Lodge settles into the bounty of autumn. Just a few butterflies were hanging on today in their tatters, including what are likely to be some of our last Common Blues and Meadow Browns of the year (especially after the ferocious squally storm that swept through later in the afternoon).

Common Darters were on duty, as they are likely to be until November, mopping up the last few flying insects. There was also a single Platycheirus albimanus hoverfly, and an Ivy Bee at rest on an oak tree – quite a surprise as there is very little Ivy around the reserve.

With flowering almost done, it was over to the autumnal fruits to provide colour. Hawthorn in particular was radiant with its masses of berries, drawing me in to look more closely at the leaves, with the tent-mines of the micromoth Phyllonorycter corylifoliella, and a harvestman Opilio canestrinii nestling among the ultra-spiny terminal shoots that have been galled by the gall-midge Dasineura crataegi. Although presumably under-recorded, the latter has only one Essex locality (near Dedham) shown on the NBN Atlas.

And so to the Oaks, which occupied most of my walk, demonstrating their prowess as a powerhouse of biodiversity, some sprouting Hen-of-the-woods and most of the saplings at least liberally coated in Oak Powdery Mildew.

So late in the season, the leaves have done their photosynthetic job, so leaf coatings, munchings, mines and galls are probably no problem to the trees. And galls in particular were everywhere, each caused by a near-identical tiny gall-wasp. Now is the time to search under the leaves for spangle-galls, and as usual Common Spangles were easy to find.

Most years, Silk-button Spangles come a close second in abundance, but as we have found elsewhere this year, they seem few and far between. In fact among the hundreds of leaves I examined, I found only four with Silk-buttons, and Smooth Spangles, often quite hard to find, outnumbered them manyfold. The vagaries of the life of a gall-wasp and its interactions with the weather and the tree!

Another species we are seeing much more of this year is the Oyster Gall, erupting from the leaf-veins, whereas Cherry Galls seem fewer than usual:

And then there were the bud-galls: Marble Galls and Artichoke Galls, both rather less frequent than we expect, and Cola-nut Galls, if anything more abundant this year. And only when looking at the galls did I notice the Opilio canestrinii staring back at me…

Spiders were another group I found by searching leaves for galls. There was a Flower Crab-spider, more usually seen sitting on flowers waiting to grab visiting pollinators, a Cucumber Spider and a Bleeding-heart Spider …

… plus the signs of other species, here the web of a Xysticus crab-spider and the Sputnik egg-sac of Paidiscura pallens.

And leaving best until last, I turned over one leaf and found this wonderful creature, my first ever caterpillar of the scarce woodland moth, the Festoon, sitting among presumably its feeding scrapes. Looking like an alien life-form, it was a real thrill to find, and while the adult turns up in many moth traps in the area, to have proof of breeding is always exciting.

 

The Colne Estuary as autumn approaches…

Britain's Wildlife, WildEssex, WildWivenhoe

Meteorological autumn may have started with the advent of September, but in today’s lovely sunshine it felt like a welcome return to summer after the unsettled spell of the past week.

Along the seawall past Barrier Marsh, the scrub is again getting a foothold among the anthills, home to Goldfinches and Linnets, while Hornets, Migrant Hawkers and both Common and Ruddy Darters hunted for their increasingly scarce insect prey. A few overhead Swallows and Meadow Pipits represented respectively the departing summer and coming winter.

Looking seaward it was high tide, so few signs of returning autumn waterbirds, at least close up; over in the distance, hiding in the heat haze and the sun-twinkled water, as the tide dropped away there were Black-tailed Godwits, Redshanks and Grey Plovers, identifiable by their distant calls.

By the Sailing Club, Strawberry Clover is having a good season, seemingly spreading, and at this time of the year in flower and fruit:

The saltmarshes are assuming the purplish wash of their autumn colours, with Annual Seablite especially turning into a visual feast, from fresh green to deep purple and every shade in-between, while the Glassworts have not yet picked up the cue of the advancing year:

And fringing the sea wall, the Shrubby Seablite too is rapidly assuming its autumnal glow:

At Grange Wood, fungi were showing, in the form of Birch Bracket and Ergot (on the flowers of Sea Couch), but too early yet to see whether the recent rains will trigger widespread fungal fruiting following our hot, droughty summer.

But no such shyness among the fruits of  the hedgerows. Everything seems to be producing in abundance, from Dog Rose and Blackthorn to large and numerous acorns:

And now of course is time to look closely at the Oak leaves. There were a few insects to be found, including this Caliroa species, one of the oak slug-sawflies…

… and most obvious of all, galls everywhere. Common Spangle galls, normally the most abundant, seemed pushed into second place by Smooth Spangles, in a range of colours from white to deep red, but seemingly, at least not in the stretches we walked, no Silk-buttons, normally the second most frequent oak leaf gall…

… while other leaf galls included Oyster galls, and the woody, bud galls included Marble and Cola-nut galls.

So much to see in just a couple of hours, boding well for a productive autumn in #WildWivenhoe!

Sunbury & Surbiton

Britain's Wildlife, Travel by Rail

Dipping our toes back into our world of monthly short breaks by public transport, we headed out to Sunbury-on-Thames. For no other reason than Jude had seen an embroidery museum that interested her … and there are pubs, a hotel and of course the river Thames. All we need for a couple of days away!

So we headed there, with the prospect of glorious summer weather changing for the worse. Sunbury Park looked interesting, but it was remarkably dry. Like the Serengeti when we arrived, deluged the following night, and no doubt within a very few days it will be greening up.

In the park is the very well preserved walled garden. Not my idea of a good garden in its over-regimented formality, but there were a few interesting plants including Trumpet-vine in flower and Carolina Silverbell in fruit.

And of course the café, and refuge from the first of the sharp showers that came our way. Right next to it was the embroidery exhibition, featuring the Sunbury Millennium Embroidery, a remarkably detailed piece of work highlighting the important features of the local community, including its historic buildings and abundant Thames-side wildlife. While perhaps most meaningful to locals and not worth the travel from afar just to see it, as part of a wider interest visit as ours was it certainly passed a good few minutes. And kept us dry!

And so down to the River Thames. Not the easiest of access, because too many long stretches of what should be a public asset have been privatised by wealth. But wherever access is possible the views of the river are very attractive, encompassing a well-wooded southern shore, islands, moorings, locks and weirs.

And as always, green space and natural margins provides for wildlife, including Harlequin Ladybirds and a Green Shieldbug; a distinctively marked Gelis ichneumon wasp (possibly G. areator) and a wax-secreting aphid; as well as several galls including the sawfly Euura bridgmanii on broad-leaved willows and the mite Eriophyes pyri on Rowan.

Perhaps the best view of all, from the Magpie pub with its riverfront terrace. As we discovered, the umbrellas are pretty water-resistant, and as the afternoon showers merged into heavy rain, the open, dry terrace seemed a good place to linger for the duration. Lots of time to appreciate the local birds, from Red Kites and Rose-ringed Parakeets, to Mute Swan families and Egyptian Geese, and even a couple of Kingfishers. Ripples in the river, stirred up by the freshening breeze and sprinkled with raindrops, made for photographic opportunities that lasted for a good pint or two! Indeed, it was so welcoming that we returned there for our evening meal.

Lower Sunbury had plenty of other interesting buildings as well, including our very comfortable accommodation, the Flower Pot.

And, after a very rainy night, an excellent breakfast. A bus drivers’ strike thwarted our plans to move on by bus, but it did give us the opportunity in the morning to look at and into St Mary’s Church. Some interesting-looking lichens in the churchyard were completely eclipsed by the interior glass and decor, in pre-Raphaelite/Eastern Orthodox style. Very impressive indeed!

And then it was off by train to our final, much anticipated destination, the Art Deco masterpiece that is Surbiton station.

And as an added bonus, once inside we found it is now the home to the restored William Blake-inspired mosaic panels of art and poetry that we had last seen several years ago in a rather battered state underneath the arches near Waterloo Station.

So far as the rest of Surbiton is concerned, it felt a whole lot more real than Sunbury, populated by real people living normal lives. Sadly St. Andrew’s Church that looked so  dramatic inside online was closed. But then there was always Wetherspoons, a converted early 20th century lecture hall. However we eschewed the charms of the cheap for the lovely atmosphere, good beer and great value lunch at the independent Elm Tree pub, complete with Guinness mural. A fine way to round off our return to the world of short breaks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Wild Side of Beth Chatto Gardens: all set for an early Autumn

Beth Chatto Gardens, Britain's Wildlife, WildEssex, WildWivenhoe

It has been great to get back into the gardens after a month’s absence. And it has been ‘all change’: the rains of late July provided merely a brief respite, and drought has reasserted itself, with the effect of producing an exceptionally early autumn.

Many flowers are fading, leaves are colouring, fruits are forming and even a few fungi are sprouting, including Boletus radicans. Fledgling birds like this Song Thrush are all around the garden, and there has been a steady stream of Swallows heading southwards overhead.

Of course by the ponds and in the damper corners, drought is less of an issue and here late summer is at its most luxuriant, with still plenty of aquatic insect activity, especially Ruddy Darters and Willow Emeralds.

Pride of place flower-wise must go to Bistorta amplexicaulis and Rudbeckia, side-by-side and buzzing with life, the former especially with social wasps and tachinid parasite-flies such as Tachina fera, the latter with all manner of flies and bugs like Green Shieldbug.

Plenty to see around the rest of the garden as well, including German Scorpionfly, Dock Bug, Tarnished Plant-bug and the autumnal micromoth Agriphila geniculea, with butterflies such as Small and Green-veined Whites and Commas still active when the sun emerged.

And as always, a few less common species. The Field Digger-wasp Mellinus arvensis is only thinly scattered across most of Essex, although with concentrations along the Thames bank and the gravels around Colchester. I have seen it in the gardens only a couple of times previously.

The sawfly Selandrina serva has, according to the maps, only a very few Essex localities, but this is surely down to under-recording and under-reporting of what is not a popular group among non-specialists. What is more certain is that the Spurge Bug Dicranocephalus medius is genuinely scarce in the county, with the map showing just two localities. One of those is my previous sighting in the garden in April 2024, no more than ten metres from today’s on the Rudbeckia.

And staying with the Rudbeckia, best of all was an extraordinary number of Locust Blowflies Stomorhina lunata, maybe ten in total in one small area. We found one of those in the garden back in October 2016. At the time there had been only two previous records from Essex of this distinctive fly that lives as a parasite of desert locusts. It is still believed to be entirely migratory to this country, probably from Africa, but it has certainly increased over the past decade, and there have been reports from elsewhere of much larger numbers than ever before. Look out for a blowfly with stripes like a hoverfly, a longitudially striped thorax, a protruding beak, and stripy eyes, especially in the less well marked female. Wonderful to see so many!

 

A day out in Needham Market

Britain's Wildlife, Travel by Rail

Our first day out for a month, and so much has changed. The memory of rain while I was in hospital has long evaporated, and we are back into drought. Summer has become autumn already. We headed by rail to Needham Market, somewhere we haven’t been, other than speeding through on the train, for a decade. Just because we can!

Our walk was along the River Gipping, starting at the impressive station, Grade 2 listed in ‘mock Elizabethan’ style, one of the few stations to have been unceremoniously dumped by Beeching but subsequently reopened. Thence, through the Cattle Tunnel, it was onto the grassland known as the Camping Ground, recreational both now and in history: ‘campan’ was a mediaeval ball game that was played there and variations of which evolved into both rugby and soccer.

Little to see in the droughted grassland itself apart from that hardiest of late summer nectar sources Yarrow, and surrounded by tree plantations, including Field Maple covered in the mite galls of Aceria macrochela, another sign of the advancing season. Another gall was that of the midge Dasineura crataegi, forming clustered shoots and spiny leaves on Hawthorn. We hadn’t seen this before: it seems to be only sparsely known on the NBN in East Anglia, although there is one recorded site just a kilometre or so down the valley.

At least by the River Gipping there was moisture, even though the flow was evidently at a low ebb. A few Banded Demoiselles, Willow Emeralds and Common Darters were out hunting, as indeed were flocks of pondskaters searching for trapped insects to suck dry on the meniscus. In common with so many other rivers at this time of year, the dominant plant was Himalayan Balsam, undeniably beautiful despite its habit of choking out native plants. But without it, what would bumblebees do…it was buzzing! Only Purple Loosestrife was fighting its corner valiantly against the balsamic onslaught and yes, it too was feeding insects, including Small and Green-veined whites.

In just a few more open locations other water plants included Water Mint and Gipsywort, while up on the drier bank sides, struggling through the Nettles, were some lovely specimens of Small Teasel, only to be found in this semi-shaded, ‘near to but not in water’ niche, and not a common plant hereabouts.

The shade was provided by Alders, and fruiting Blackthorn (a good year for sloe gin is in the offing!), Alder Buckthorn and Dogwood, with scrambling Hops, not yet pollinated showing there is still life in summer yet!

Plentiful insect life in the riverine corridor included Commas, Peacock caterpillars, a lumbering Elephant Hawkmoth larva seeking out bare ground for pupation, and Dock Bugs in a complete range of instars. A smart parasitoid wasp might have been Bracon otiosus, but they are legion and there are no accessible sources of information and images.

Further upstream the river has been made to work, with channels cut from it to power the water mills, the still, impounded waters covered in dense mats of Least Duckweed …

… while Hawks Mill now stands impotently (but attractively) over the waters it once harnessed, creating abstract reflections of the Mill Stream walls.

Into the town, first stop was the impressive St John the Baptist Church, with its magnificent double hammerbeam roof. It was here ten years ago that, encouraged by Jude, I first let my eyes and heart appreciate the wonder of ecclesiastical architecture: it’s not just ‘a pile of old stones’!!

And the rest of the village is also impressively historic, with a fine High Street, although  sadly suffering from the curse of cars, all seemingly driving on through, not stopping and spending. Thank goodness then for our final stop the Rampant Horse pub: an outstanding lunch, including some of the best whitebait I have ever had, plus sea bream for me and Mediterranean vegetable risotto for Jude. That and a couple of pints and it was back to the station. A fine first foray out, all in the name of a sustainable recuperation, and we will be back, especially to that pub! And next step, back into the pattern of monthly short breaks…not long to wait now!

 

A Steaming Day at Crossness Pumping Station

Britain's Wildlife, Miscellaneous, Travel by Bus, Travel by Rail

Crossness Pumping Station is a key part of the sewage treatment system designed by Joseph Bazalgette in the mid-19th century to try and ensure that London never again suffered from a ‘Great Stink’ from untreated sewage pouring into the Thames, as it did most famously in 1858.

The components of this system have stood the test of time, delivering the capacity needed until the construction of the Thames Tideway tunnel, opened and completed in 2025, although not without controversy, given its cost, and missed opportunity to manage combined rainwater/sewage flows sustainably, by opening lost rivers and retaining and enhancing water-absorbing greenspaces.

Bazalgette’s system included an extensive system of street sewers, with two intercepting outfall sewers, one each side of the river, reaching pumping stations at Beckton (north) and Crossness (south), which lifted the sewage for gravity discharge into the Thames. Of course times changed and sewage treatment works were retrofitted at each of the pumping locations, and now Beckton is claimed to be the biggest treatment works in Europe.

Those who delivered public works in the Victorian era were clearly not afraid to spend a little more money to raise the utilitarian to a thing of beauty. We have seen Abbey Mills Pumping Station from a distance in the past in the middle of the vast Beckton works, been fascinated but never had the chance to visit, so when we discovered the open days at Crossness, including ‘steaming days’ when the giant pumps would be in motion, we just had to go!

Crossness Pumping Station, on those special days, is approached on a vintage (rattly!) Routemaster bus from Abbey Wood rail station, thence a narrow-gauge railway out to the Pumping Station itself, the air laced with a reminder from the modern sewage treatment plant of its past purpose. 

From the outside, the station seems so much more ornate than the 20th century public utilities we are used to …

… but then you get inside, and are greeted with a riot of colour and ironwork. Closed in 1956, the building has been substantially restored, and opened to the public on special days since 2016. And the restoration lives up to Pevsner’s description: “a masterpiece of engineering – a Victorian cathedral of ironwork”.

At the heart of the pumping station were four (others were added later) huge steam-driven pumps, raising sewage by 9 to 12 metres, 6 tonnes being lifted by each stroke (11 per minute) of each engine into a high-level holding reservoir to be discharged on an ebbing tide.

The pumps are in various stages of restoration but one was operating on our visit, thrillingly so even for one like me who is definitely not of the ‘cloth cap, smell of the grease, covered in soot’ fraternity!

And the unrestored, rust-laden sections are engagingly artistic and worth the visit in themselves.



Apparently, nature on the adjacent Erith marshes is good, but not for today with some torrential downpours. So the only wildlife of note was the remarkably abundant fruiting of Wild Plums, the fallen fruit forming into unusual groundscapes.



Then it was back on the bus to Abbey Wood, into the Abbey Arms for one of the best Sunday roasts (pork belly) I have ever had the pleasure to consume.

Afterwards we still had a while before our train, and the sharp showers had blown through, so we took a walk to Lesnes Abbey, an interesting area and one we felt merited a longer visit some time.

So, a fascinating day out, an one which fulfilled its primary aim of taking our minds off what was to come, my major vascular abdominal surgery just five days hence!

Well that is now in the past. Recovery continues and thanks to our wonderful NHS all went swimmingly, from initial diagnosis to surveillance to a plan of action, with delivery of the repair within three months from action being triggered. A week ago right now I was under the knife. Six days later I walked out of Colchester General with a stapled tummy and new plastic abdominal aorta, looking forward to the next 65 years. And nothing but fulsome praise for our NHS and its rainbow of wonderful staff #♥theNHS: I just hope other countries who have provided staff have the trained staff for their own needs as well…

 

The Wild Side of Beth Chatto Gardens: after the Ladybird Blizzard…

Beth Chatto Gardens, Britain's Wildlife, WildEssex, WildWivenhoe

My July Wildside Walks around the Beth Chatto Gardens came with a backstory. Just over a week previously, we had seen an influx of insects into north-east Essex that was unprecedented this millennium. Two previous blogs cover the events of that week: I didn’t have time to get to the gardens while the influx was actively under way so we had to enjoy the spectacle from Wivenhoe Lower Lodge and Walton-on-the-Naze. In fact I have to go back to the long, hot summer of 1976 to recall such numbers…

I did however manage to get to the gardens the day after the insect blizzard and found the flowers to be dripping with hoverflies and ladybirds. In keeping with our observations from the previous couple of days, all ladybirds seemed to be 7-spots, and the hoverflies were of six main species: Eupeodes corollae, Eupeodes luniger, Syrphus ribesii, Episyrphus balteatus, Sphaerophoria cf scripta and Scaeva pyrastri.

 

A week later, for the walks, things had quietened down a lot. Yes, there were still many more than the (recently) ‘normal’ number of insects (aside from aphids which the hungry hordes had hoovered up), but clearly many of the ladybirds and hoverflies had either been eaten or moved on. We were in Blackpool four days after our influx, and noticed a significant arrival of ladybirds there, perhaps ‘ours’, having crossed the North Sea and pushing on, boldly going places where there might still be aphids left to eat.

As always there were some star plants, doing the heavy lifting and feeding the most insects: lavenders, marjorams, sea-hollies, buddleias, scabiouses, fennels and spurges. Anyone wanting to enhance their own garden for summer wildlife could do a lot worse than to bring in some of these, or their close relatives.

Coming as this did right at the start of the Big Butterfly Count 2025 citizen science survey, I’ll start with the butterflies. In total, fifteen species were spotted and I could have easily added another five or more had I gone searching specifically for them.

The above were just a few of those on offer but, in terms of number, pride of place must go to the Gatekeepers. They were everywhere, seeming to love the marjoram especially.

And there was much more than just the butterflies. There were of course the remnants from the previous week’s arrivals: ladybirds and hoverflies.

Then there were several other hoverflies that seemed not to be represented in the main influx such as Drone Fly and Batman Hoverfly, while tachinid parasite-flies were also noticeable, especially Tachina fera and Eriothrix rufomaculatus.

Hogweed Bonking-beetles were numerous, and not restricting themselves to their favoured umbel inflorescences, while a Black-and-yellow Longhorn beetle nibbled the Eryngium majestically, pushing aside the hoverflies as it fed.

Many different bees and wasps were active on all the favoured flowers, and more. As well as bumbles and honeys, bees included miners and leaf-cutters, solitary bees that seem to be doing well here this year, perhaps related to their being apparently fewer Honeybees dominating the floral resources. Leaf-cutters have also been busy cutting discs from leaves, like a garden Matisse, then inserting them into suitable nesting holes.

The social Common, German and  Median Wasps (two colour forms of the latter pictured here) fed alongside solitary wasps like Bee-wolf and Ornate-tailed Digger-wasps Cerceris rybyensis:

With so much action on the flowers, not surprisingly there were those hoping to take advantage, including Flower Crab-spiders and Blue-tailed Damselflies, ‘sit-and-wait’ and ‘in-flight’ predators respectively. And with all that going on up top, our attention was rather deflected from the insects feeding on the leaves and stems such as this Hairy Shieldbug.

But probably the most notable thing about these walks was the number of ‘firsts’, at a range of scales. There was a first for me in this garden (although others have reported it as it has spread to our part of the world over the past five years): a Jersey Tiger moth. Another day-flying moth, albeit rather worn, was a Six-spot Burnet, probably the first garden record. And a dead Bank Vole was the first I have identified with certainty here, having not done any small mammal trapping surveys.

Three bugs were new to the garden list, although probably have simply been overlooked in the past: Nysius senecionis (just five previous records on the Tendring Peninsula, here with the small plasterer bee Colletes daviesanus for scale, showing how easy it would be to miss), Orthops campestris (only three Tendring records, all right by the coast) and Liocoris tripustulatus (widespread across Essex, albeit with records concentrated in the south of the county, which probably says more about the distribution of active recorders than the species itself!).

A Large-headed Resin-bee Heriades truncorum was the first garden record. This species has spread from being a south-eastern rarity in the last two decades, but in Essex has generally been found on brownfield sites by the Thames and west of Colchester: its two recorded localities on the Tendring Peninsula are both right by the coast. Perhaps caught up with the influx of Seven-spots, a single Adonis Ladybird (small, with spots weighted to the front half of the wing-cases) was also new to the garden list. This is found mainly in sandy areas and on brownfields sites, so in Essex it is most frequent west of Colchester and along Thames-side. Likewise the  lovely little fly Cistogaster globosa, a parasite of shieldbugs, that is found mainly in the same two areas of Essex, but rather more sparsely. And another parasite, the ichneumon wasp Ctenichneumon panzeri (if identified correctly: they are many and tricky) is recorded on the National Biodiversity Network Atlas from only 14 locations nationally, none of which is anywhere near Essex. The latter is surely down to under-recording.

But this is certainly not the case with the insect highlight of the day: two Long-tailed Blues, again probably ones that had been caught up in last week’s immigration spectacular. Not only is this a new garden record, there are only seven previous Essex sightings, and I have never before seen it in the UK. Safe to say, I got rather excited!

Although widespread in mainland Europe, Long-tailed Blue has rarely been proven to breed in this country, and its occurrence is generally the result of immigration. And so is unpredictable, irregular and always a delight. What a way to mark the first day of this summer’s national butterfly survey!

My next set of Wildside Walks are scheduled for 19 September, booking through the Beth Chatto website at 11AM or noon. Especially if we get some useful rain, I would expect the summer to continue in a similar insect-rich vein. While many of the current star plants are coming to a natural end, there are more to come. The various forms of Bistorta amplexicaulis  together with the daisy family (coneflowers, hemp-agrimonies, black-eyed-Susans and Michaelmas-daisies, for example) should prove some of the insect-feeding stars for the next two months.

I make no apologies for finishing by repeating what I have written in a previous blog in relation to this year of insect riches.

We must not let complacency set in, and stop doing all we can to save the future planet just because (unusually) there are lots of insects around. Nothing has changed fundamentally compared to last year when I was complaining of the Silent Summer. The same pesticides are used profligately. Habitat loss and fragmentation is increasing in the drive to build more houses to satisfy a ‘crisis’ promoted by housebuilder lobbyists. And climate collapse is accelerating, especially with world ‘leaders’ in thrall to big oil.

There are always oscillations around a declining trend. Last year was a trough, this looks like a peak. It may well be due to weather patterns of the last few months. And almost certainly many of the insects we have been seeing in coastal Essex are not home-bred. Thank goodness for immigration, as in so many aspects of life.

It is years like this one that give me hope though. As a conservationist over the past four decades, I have seen the continuing, worrying decline of wildlife, but I cling to hope that if nature is given the chance it can and will bounce back. It has to…