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Springmead Garden, Brightlingsea

Today, we were invited along to Springmead Garden in Brightlingsea to talk about Wildlife Gardening with Julie Ford, the Head Gardener and a group of local people. It was my second, and Jude’s first, visit to this delightful secret garden in the heart of Brightlingsea.

As soon as we entered the garden, leaving the noise of the busy road behind, the importance of this green space became apparent with Chiffchaff, Dunnock, Wren, Blue Tits and Robins in song, along with Blackbird and Song Thrush singing from the nearby trees, a Greenfinch wheezing and House Sparrows chirruping merrily. Embraced in the songs of the wild, we could ignore the threatening rain … and then the sun came out! Sheer bliss!!

The garden straddles the geological interface between London Clay and Thames sands and gravels, the point at which groundwater starts to move sideways not downwards, and emerges as a spring. The clue is in the name! Very close to the site of a villa, the Roman occupants clearly knew a thing or two and settled with an assured supply of fresh water in their front garden.

Subsequently forming the garden of one Captain Wenlock, he gifted this gem to the people of Brightlingsea. And after a period of neglect, since 2001 the Springmead Trust has lovingly restored it into its current shape.

If we had been asked there to give  masterclass in wildlife gardening, well our services were really not needed. Julie and her volunteers have done pretty much everything we could have recommended. No pesticides (poisons); plants left untrimmed overwinter in order to shelter beneficial insects, like ladybirds (greenfly-munchers); plants that some consider weeds like Red Dead-nettle unweeded, encouraged even, for what they provide to nature (today, along with Nepeta, feeding hordes of Hairy-footed Flower-bees). Even the lawn, in too many places a pampered, poisoned green carpet, here it is springy and tussocky – and with luck it will be allowed to provide for our Spring insects in No Mow May.

As Beth Chatto taught us gardeners decades ago, the secret of gardening success in a sustainable manner is ‘Right Plant, Right Place’: planting according to conditions produces happy plants that survive and thrive without copious, costly, ecologically destructive inputs of pesticide, fertilizer, peat and water.

Taking that to the next level, the secret of wildlife gardening is to ensure that Right Plant, Right Place extends to the ‘right plant’ being right for insects (especially providing pollen and nectar) which then go on underpin the food chains which result in the chorus of birdsong that welcomed us in.

But this is still a garden. It is obviously cared for, with no sign of the 20th century neglect. It is not just trying to create a pastiche of our countryside with plantings of native species. Natives and non-natives are mixed in all their multicultural glory, and almost all are of wildlife value – no blowsy, multi-petalled forms which promise everything to our native insects but deliver nothing.

The right plants are in the right places. By the spring, boggy conditions are home to Gunnera, irises, sedges and Shuttlecock Ferns…

…whereas on the higher, sandier ground it is Mediterranean herbs like Rosemary and Lavender, acid-green splashes of Euphorbia wulfenii and many, many more. All of which point the way to the future of gardening, the necessity for waterwise planting in the face of rampant climate collapse.

As naturalists, we were so pleased to see and hear the range of wildlife in the garden. And not just the commonplace –  potentially some rare and interesting things as well.  As is her wont, and near-magical skill, Jude spotted a practically invisible Early Grey moth, which as I focussed was photobombed by a bug. Subject to confirmation, this could be a critter called Rhyparochromus vulgaris, a rare recent arrival in Essex. [Confirmation of this identification has now come from i-record. According to the Essex Field Club map, this is only the second record for North Essex, the first also being in the Brightlingsea/Alresford Creek area in 2018].

After a splendid hour in an uplifting location, we will certainly be back. Not least because Jude immediately signed up as a Friend of Springmead Garden (only £5). Go along there (it is free!), enjoy, and perhaps you will do the same, maybe buying some of the wildlife-friendly plants propagated on site as well… And to add to the temptation, here are a few more photos demonstrating the beauty and interest of this spot, the green heart of Brightlingsea.

The Wild Side of Beth Chatto Gardens: Euphorbia euphoria…

Spurges (Euphorbia) are one of the staples of gardens such as Beth Chattos that pride themselves at being water-wise. With their often acid-green inflorescences, they form many a backdrop, but too rarely take centre-stage. But they do have much of interest, not least because they are all so easily recognisable as close relatives with a wholly unique flower structure, called a ‘cyathium’ (one for the pub quizzers and crossword buffs). Here in the garden we have half a dozen or more forms flowering right now, with a whole range of others to come throughout the summer season.

Within the bowl of the cyathium lie not only the naughty bits but also the nectar glands, often distinctively coloured and/or shaped, and which are important features for the identification to species.

And along with the pollen-bearing stamens, the nectar glands are the source of sustenance for insects. Given their open inflorescences, with no way of restricting access to potential pollinators, spurges help support a vast range of insects, as shown today with hoverflies, other flies, pollen beetles, ladybirds and mini-miner bees all basking in the largesse.

The temperature was still on the chilly side, so there were in fact rather few insects around although lungwort was drawing in those species with long-enough tongues to get deep into the flowers and find the nectar. Queen bumblebees and Dark-edged Bee-flies were prospecting,  but most numerous were the Hairy-footed Flower-bees, with jerky flight and relatively high-pitched buzz, the larger, almost black females often being shadowed by a smaller, gingery male… Spring in the air!

Otherwise, the (mostly) blue grape-hyacinths and squills and yellow mahonias seemed to be the preferred forage sources for Honeybees…

 

But as can be seen from the photos below, there are many more nectar and pollen sources waiting in the wings for the burst of insect activity which should be on its way very soon. For insects, it is a case of ‘Right Plant, Right Place, Right Time’; given the endlessly variable interplay between the floral availability, insect emergence and weather conditions, this is where gardens like Beth Chatto’s (and indeed any garden that is not poisoned with pesticides, manicured to death or choked under plastic grass) come into their own.

 

The Wild Side of West London

Inspired in part by reading a new book we were sent for review (see here BOOK REVIEW: West London Wildlife | Chris Gibson Wildlife), we decided to spend a couple of days based in Chiswick to get to know some of the delights of that part of the city, both natural and otherwise. A great birthday present, as it turned out, in no small part to our break coinciding with the first truly warm Spring weather.

First it was to Gunnersbury Triangle, an iconic pocket park of a nature reserve, one we have been to several times before (see here and here for previous blogs). It was as expected delightful, with Chiffchaffs and Blackcaps singing, Sallow trees in bloom …

… and in sheltered spots, invertebrate life making most of the sunlight, including our first Dark-edged Bee-flies, Hairy-footed Flower-bees and Green Tortoise-beetles of the year…

… along with much, much more …

But special mention must be made of two very unexpected bugs, ones that tend to be found in rich sandy habitats and ancient woodland clearings respectively, Rhombic Leather-bug and the spurge-bug Dicranocephalus medius.

The surrounding area of Acton Green is not without interest either, from the Art Deco-style Chiswick Park tube station to the rather more recent Mosaic House, and everywhere splashes of natural colour revelling in the light:

Moving on to Chiswick proper, we went from the High Street and its profusely flowering Hop-hornbeams to the somewhat less attractive flyover…

…and the rather improbable survival of Hogarth’s House amid the roads and offices, with its garden, again an oasis of green, shot through with vivid spring colours.

Chiswick House & Gardens is of course an altogether larger green lung, with calling Nuthatches and singing Blackbirds. and as in all such places resounding to the incessant chatter of Rose-ringed Parakeets.

Coots were sitting tight on their monumental nests in the lake …

… and Stinking Hellebore was coming to the end of its flower season, while we have never seen Butcher’s-broom flowering so profusely, and as ever harbouring ladybirds, including this Cream-spot Ladybird.

Continuing up-river, Strawberry Hill House was full of the ‘eccentricities’ of the 18th century elite…

… and the garden had its own such oddities, with a lovely display of Hoop-petticoat Daffodils and a Grey Heron which has adopted the table-begging habits of the city pigeons.

Back to the river, our walk took us towards Teddington (sadly not along the bank itself, as the riparian frontage, which should be an asset for all, has been purloined by the select few) …

… across the bridge at Teddington Lock, with weed-waving Great Crested Grebes in full display …

… to Ham Lands nature reserve, where spring was once again asserting itself, with bursting buds of Wild Cherry, Norway Maple and Ash, buzzing Bee-flies, and and Brimstone butterflies everywhere!

A delightful end to our time in the Wild West of London, all rounded off with a welcome pint in The Anglers and a magnificent meal at The Wharf!

 

#WildEssex – a walk along Mistley Walls

A sunny day sandwiched between rain, rain and more rain –  we were so lucky that our Mistley bird walk turned out to be then!  So lovely to be out in the sunshine, though we were all glad of our gloves and hats as the wind was keen (as Jude’s Mum would have said!).

We kicked off with lunch in The Crown pub which coped with our various dietary requirements admirably  – this place seems to be going up in the world with some refurbishments inside and out. It really is the perfect spot to eat and enjoy views of the estuary, right over to Brantham and Holbrook. Restaurant | The Crown Manningtree | Manningtree

Our walk followed the banks of the Stour from Manningtree to Mistley, looking at the bird life being pushed up to us on the rising tide. The numbers of birds were perhaps not as many as we had hoped for – why was this?  Well, possibly we were slightly late in the season, the cold weather definitely a factor, and worryingly perhaps bird flu has taken a toll. We sadly saw a dead gull on the shore. ‘Social distancing’ isn’t something birds would know about, and Mistley can be a ‘’go to’ gathering place for our feathered friends.

We saw the usual waders, all uniquely equipped with different bill- and leg-lengths enabling them to forage for different goodies in the mud: Black-tailed Godwits (many starting to moult into russet summer plumage), Redshanks, Turnstones, Dunlins and Avocets, with a lone Oystercatcher pecking about in the confines of the old outdoor swimming pool.

Various kinds of duck floated by, including Teals, Shelducks and Mallards, and a couple of Great Crested Grebes with their weird and wonderful head adornments dived for lunch in the deeper waters of the Port as we looked on. Our local celebrity species, Dark-bellied Brent Geese were visible both out on the water in number and nearer the shore in small groups. Each estuary of the Essex coast is internationally important for these charming little geese, together supporting a fifth of the entire world population, breeding in high Arctic Siberia.

Gulls provided entertainment with their squawks and antics. Lesser Black-backed Gulls (particularly handsome birds in our opinion) were demonstrating courtship behaviour; Black-headed Gulls acquiring their ‘black’ heads (actually brown) to make themselves look even more beautiful; Herring Gulls with their customary cries and scuffles for food.

In the Mistley Towers grounds Blackbirds were seen and Robins heard. A Chiffchaff sang its onomatopoeic song, reminding us that Spring really is here (despite the chill wind, and forecast overnight frost!). But as our regulars know, birds are only a small part of what we are about – and other aspects of nature were noticed and enjoyed: Holm Oak leaf-miners patterning the leaves; lichens in many different forms on tree trunks and on the ancient wall of Hopping Bridge; the corky bark growth of Elm; and a smattering of plants including Sweet Violet, Red Dead-nettle and White Comfrey being particularly interesting. Few actual insects were seen apart from a 7-spot Ladybird, though of course the leaf mines were showing evidence of mass insect activity, the adult moths to come later in the summer.

 

 

The whole area of the Mistley Walls is historic and interesting – well worth a visit.  The Towers, designed by Robert Adam, proudly demonstrate the wealth that was Mistley. The church constructed between the towers is now long dismantled, but the structures themselves were retained as seamarkers for vessels approaching the port. Nowadays the quay area is rather sad, all fenced off (despite ‘Free the Quay’ campaigning for many years), but the local logistics company is clearly busy judging from the number of large lorries in and out. These vehicles no doubt contribute to the rather overwhelming volume of traffic along the Walls, bringing noise and pollution; although these factors were disturbing to we human beings, the resident (and many) local swans and geese seemed totally oblivious.

Ironically, it is these human intrusions that help to habituate the birds meaning the Walls are the best place to watch these normally shy creatures well anywhere on the Essex coast.

As always we were delighted that such a wonderful group of nature enthusiasts could join us and we look forward to the next WildEssex adventure…

 

 

 

The Wild Side of Essex with Naturetrek: a blustery day at the Naze

March at the Naze is always unpredictable weather-wise, but one constant feature is the wind! And so it proved, with 20-30+mph winds whipping across the headland, penetrating every nook and cranny, ensuring the bird life in particular remained well-concealed.

However in spells of springy sunshine the Red Crag cliffs were afire, brought to life by the blooming of Colt’s-foot on the slipping undercliff….

…. although by the time we made it onto the beach, the cloud had gathered, rain was imminent, the gloom mirrored in the London Clay and the beach clothed with pyritized wood and copperas after recent sand erosion from the foreshore.

A very high tide required a rejig of the our planned route, and meant there were rather few shorebirds. But most species were present and correct, Ringed Plovers seemingly the most numerous, and already noisily getting down to territorial display.

 A few Turnstones, Dunlins, Sanderlings and other waders provided good opportunities for side-by-side comparison, while other waterbirds included Brent Geese, numbers already seemingly reduced by spring migration back towards Siberia,  and a Woodcock that flew from our path through a copse, always a bonus bird.

But the wind kept most scrubland birds out of sight; Chiffchaffs and Cetti’s Warblers were singing well, maybe eight of the latter being a high number and a good sign for its continued spread into the drier scrub areas of the site.

The few trees on the windswept headland were just coming into their own, Hornbeam, Sallow and Alder all festooned in catkins….

…. while the absence of leaves make it all the easier to appreciate the weird and wonderful growth forms (Hornbeam), the distinctive pattern of diamond-shaped lenticels (White Poplar) and the natural lichen art on the trunks.

Gorse of course was in flower, against a blue sky a fitting tribute to the ongoing troubles of the Ukrainian peoples, along with Blackthorn just bursting into bloom….

… while the most important nectar source at the moment seems to be Alexanders, attracting solitary bees and dung flies aplenty. However much criticism can be levelled at alien plant, this is one such that really earns at keep at a time of year when native nectar sources are at a premium.

Insect life was not especially evident, given the wind, but three species of butterfly (Comma, Brimstone and Peacock) appeared in sheltered corners, along with nest-questing queen Buff-tailed Bumblebees, a few basking 7-Spot Ladybirds, a Hawthorn Shield-bug and a larval Cream-spot Tiger moth.

So, something for everyone in windy Wild Essex, even if the late Spring and the ferocity of the elements meant we found ourselves admiring ‘less obvious’ things like the newly sprouting shoots of Sea Hog’s-fennel (rarest plant of the day) and the acid-green fringe of Early Meadow-grass along the path sides, a former rarity, recent arrival and success story of climate collapse!

 

Halifax: four seasons in three days….

Second in our series (after Coventry) of seemingly unlikely holiday destinations, Halifax has been on our radar for several years. Long before Happy Valley-mania, a friend told us of the renovation and reopening of the Piece Hall, and with our love of Industrial Architecture, our interest was piqued. After several false starts (yes, Covid!) we finally got to spend a couple of days there last week…

The Piece Hall, an 18th-century textile market (albeit masquerading as a Venetian piazza) is regarded as the most important secular building in Yorkshire, and it is really a cathedral to commerce, the commerce that shaped West Yorkshire. All was quiet on the days we visited, just right to appreciate the scale and design, and the disappearing vistas down the colonnades.

The Piece Hall alone justified our visit, but there was so much more in the town, from the 19th-cntury Town Hall, designed by Charles Barry (he of the Palace of Westminster fame), to the numerous mills all in various stages of being upcycled into use once again.

And all buildings looking better than in the not-too-distant past, the honey-coloured stone (especially beautiful in sunlight) having been released from the smoky black legacy of the Industrial Revolution. All except for the oldest building, the Minster (dating back to around 1450) which was presumably too fragile and precious to withstand sandblasting: it still shows the soot of ages.

Pleasantly rustic inside, with some lovely, almost-clear windows showing their leaded tracery to advantage, this church was remodelled by yet another eminent Victorian architect, George Gilbert Scott.

As is our wont, we did of course seek out the green. A walk alongside the River Hebble provided just that, with mosses and ferns clothing stone walls, and last-year’s Self-heal bringing a touch of botanical art.

And it was art (and architecture), intentional and otherwise, that sent us through Leeds on the way to Halifax as we changed trains.

The beautiful blue skies of our arrival, however, didn’t last, and as the third day dawned, Storm Larisa was making her presence felt. Just time for a quick jaunt to see a friend in Sowerby Bridge, then make tracks homewards before the return of winter left us stranded…

The Forces of Upper Teesdale

Please forgive the gnomic title, but this blog is about my recent trip to Upper Teesdale, a magnificent part of our upland realm, a place shaped by its geology and its iconic waterfalls, or Forces, but ending with reference to the other of the forces, that Force of Nature, Margaret Bradshaw…

Almost as far from my usual lowland haunts as one can find in England, snow was still blanketing the higher Pennine slopes above Cow Green Reservoir, looking to Great Dun Fell.

Below the snow line, while cold, the air was remarkably still and ringing with the sound of the only birds on the higher, heathery slopes, the gobbling calls of Red Grouse.

Lower down, however, in the enclosed pastures, a windswept land of stunted trees and stone walls, Black Grouse were also much in evidence, more so than on my previous visits to the area, although only showing tentative signs of lekking.

But Lapwings, Curlews and Oystercatchers were back on territory after their winter sojourn by the sea, tumbling and peewiting, bubbling, and piping respectively, and with exuberant eruptions of fresh Mole hills signifying their release from the icy grip of winter.

Summer or winter, the geology and its process are always to be seen. The waterfalls of Low Force and High Force were both impressive in the spate of snowmelt.

High Force particularly is one of the iconic natural sights of our country, the largest single-drop cascade in England falling 21 metres into a deep plunge-pool, over rocks and cliffs seemingly immune to the scour of the rushing waters.

The slopes around High Force are clad in dwarf evergreen Juniper  forests, while woodland in the valleys was still bare, save for the dangling catkins of Hazel: spring arrives late in such extreme places.

All the better then to appreciate the mossy lichenscapes on  bark, stumps and boulders…

…with the evergreen Hard Shield-fern showing well alongside the first flowers of Opposite-leaved Golden-saxifrage. Even here Spring is springing.

But as for the unique upland flora of Upper Teesdale, one of the county’s botanical hotspots, nothing was stirring. Apart from within the confines of the High Force Hotel, where the main reason for my trip unfolded, the launch of a splendid new Princeton Wild Guides book Teesdale’s Special Flora – Places, plants and people by Dr Margaret Bradshaw. Many years in gestation (I was part of the delegation that exhorted her to write up her important, unique knowledge 15 years ago), Jude and I were privileged to have been asked to help steer this tribute to the Teesdale Assemblage towards publication.

Margaret, now 97, was there to sign copies (amazingly, her first book!), give speeches, and generally keep the event flowing with her precise recall of people, places, and especially plants. This book is as much a tribute to her – one of few botanists to be known universally by her initials MEB – as to the place itself.

Seemingly hewn from limestone and Whin Sill, the very rocks that give Upper Teesdale is character, Margaret has been a ceaseless advocate for the special flora for now 70 years, always speaking with deep scientific authority shot through with an evident love for this unique place. Put simply, the book is a must for anyone interested in, or visiting, Teesdale.

Without Margaret’s tenacity, the latter half of the 20th century would have seen huge, destructive inroads into this irreplaceable part of our botanical heritage. Even MEB failed to stop the destruction wrought by the imposition of Cow Green Reservoir on the landscape but, ever the scientist, she made the most of the opportunity to study ‘rescued rarities’ in cultivation, as well as to catalogue and survey those that remain with renewed urgency.

Now that the contents of her brain are available to us all, there is simply no excuse for us not to support the work of the Teesdale Special Flora Research and Conservation Trust (yes, of course set up by Margaret, in 2017) and enable it to carry forward her (thankfully) still-living legacy.

 

Thank you Margaret, and we can only wish you many more years of striding the hills among the flowers you love and have done so much to protect for us all.

 

 

#WildEssex Walks – signs of Spring in Cockaynes Reserve

A rather murky February morning saw us and our enthusiastic group gather for our annual foray to Cockayne’s Nature Reserve. Well-managed by the Cockaynes Wood Trust, this is one of Wivenhoe’s best kept secrets – a tranquil place comprising two sections of wood, with open areas of heathland and ponds in between and which supports a vast variety of wildlife.

Prior to 1986 it had been one continuous stretch of wood but, due to its importance as a sand and gravel resource, was at that time earmarked for destruction and extraction.  Fortunately, the sand and gravel company asked for Chris’ professional advice as to how retain some features to be ‘best for wildlife’.  The presence of two rare species – the Scarlet Elf-cup fungus (that area being the only known north-east Essex record at that time, and probably still to this date) and Heather (very scarce in Essex) – shaped the final plans and areas containing these were spared the chainsaw. Happenstance is not a great conservation policy, but sometimes as here it works, sowing the seeds of the reserve we see today.

Not only that, the resulting pits from which the gravel was dug were saved from landfill, and allowed to remain open, naturally fill with water and vegetation and have become important habitats for birds, both local and migrating.  Birds using the lakes on our visit included the relatively rare Water Rail with its ‘squealing pig’ call – these nestle in reedy beds and are rarely seen. Plants including our two types of Reedmace sit happily side-by-side in the lakes, both providing abundant seeds for birds.

Around the reserve, open heathland is developing well, rewilding itself after the traumas of gravel extraction. It really repays getting down low to see the grey, bristle-branched cushions of Reindeer Lichen, and unique to this time of year the gloriously orange mini-forests of Juniper Hair-cap moss sporophytes.

Whilst sunshine would have been lovely, the still, damp air made the woods most atmospheric, and we were accompanied by the thrice-repeated call of the Song Thrush (a bird which has suffered horrendously through use of slug pellets which poison its food, and therefore it), and two types of Woodpecker, Green and Great Spotted. Bright green mosses carpeted fallen branches and trunks, along with Turkey-tail fungi, and provided swathes of colour, while the little grey-green spikes of Bluebell leaves were spearing through the leaf-mould, and the spring-greens of Cow Parsley – a joyous tapestry of greens all lighting up the banks of Sixpenny Brook.

We were on the look-out for Signs of Spring and were rewarded with the male catkins and female flowers of Hazel, wonderful golden curtains en masse, Gorse flowers and the just-flowering buds of  Pussy Willow.

A few flowers on the woodland floor were beginning to raise their heads, including Lesser Celandines, just about poking through their marvellously marbled leaves.

Otherwise, plants included Red Dead-nettles (one of the species that welcomes the first-emerging bees of the year) and as we walked up Ballast Quay Lane, flowering shrubs like Winter Jasmine, proving just how important wildlife-sensitive planting can help our gardens to ‘improve on Nature’ at this low-point time of year for the British landscape.

Given the time of year and temperature, we  were not expecting to find much in the way of invertebrate life, but we did find a spider curled up on a rush flowerhead,  Larinoides cornutus. 

As always we are grateful for local charities including Essex Wildlife Trust (recipients of our donation today) and the Cockaynes Trust for looking after increasingly important sites such as these, for us and future generations to enjoy.

The Mundon Oaks

On my way to leading walk from Burnham on Crouch, I took the opportunity to do something I have been meaning to do for nearly 40 years, to visit the so-called ‘petrified ‘ forest of Dengie, the amazing Mundon Oaks.

 

On a dull day, they presented a stark and mysterious sight, one that is probably best captured in monochrome…

Aged at somewhere around 800 or 900, these oaks died standing in middle age several centuries ago, probably as a result of saltwater incursion from the Blackwater. That has to some extent preserved (albeit not petrified) the trunks, though they are now showing the wear and tear of the centuries, and bits are dropping off. My advice if you want to see them, don’t leave it four decades like I did: by then they may exist only in photos and the collective Essex memory …

 

… and if you go, another ‘must see’ is the remote, grade 1-listed St Mary’s Church.

With parts dating back to the 14th century, and on the probable site of a previous Saxon church, clearly this was once a place of importance, standing alongside the ancient pilgrim route to St Peter’s Chapel on the wildest, far-flung edge of Essex at Bradwell.

The church almost found itself suffering the future fate of the oaks, of collapse and mouldering into the earth. But thanks to the sterling work of the wonderful, and evocatively named charity, the Friends of Friendless Churches, dedicated to saving these unsung gems of our architectural and social history, it has been rescued and restored from the jaws of dereliction.

It’s just a pity that there is no way to turn back the hands of time for the trees….

‘Birdwatching for Beginners’ at Burnham on Crouch

A stiff, cool breeze made conditions less-than-optimal for birdwatching by the River Crouch, and certainly there were no large numbers of shorebirds, those presumably keeping their heads down out of the wind, perhaps across the river in the lagoons of Wallasea Island. But for this sort of walk, numbers are not necessary – if starting from a point of little knowledge, what’s really needed is enough different types of bird and good enough views to be able to see (and hear) the salient features.

Along the waterfront as we started, the tide was up and the gulls were largely roosting on the various jetties and structures, a great opportunity to compare and contrast the Black-headed Gulls (in a variety of head-moult stages) with Herring Gulls, and just a couple of Common Gulls.

Then as the tide ebbed, out came the waders, including Oystercatchers, Redshanks, a Curlew and (more distantly) Black-tailed Godwits and fly-over Golden Plovers, with additional variety coming from Teals splodging in the mud, Little Egrets and a diving Dabchick hugging the shoreline.

Riverbank gardens also had a range of interesting and important plants, from the decorative, salt-tolerant Silk Tassel-bush to our native Ivy, in fruit, demonstrating its supreme ecological importance at a time when most other shrubs have been stripped by the birds.

Into Riverside Park, there were plenty of perching birds, though only the Woodpigeons and Magpies were showing well; smaller species were keeping warm deep in the scrub or (Greenfinches and Pied Wagtails especially) being swept past aloft at a rate of knots. Robins and Great Tits were in full song, Blue Tits and Long-tailed Tits more restrained…

… the first spring flowers were out, including Red Dead-nettle, Shepherd’s-purse and Common Chickweed, and the wholly incongruous sight of Stinking Hellebores apparently fully naturalised among the rip-rap stone facing of the Yacht Harbour.

And the various bushes were also showing signs of springing into life, with Cherry-plum starting to flower and Blackthorn almost there. Hazel catkins wafting the the breeze drew the eye into the glorious little scarlet female flowers, while the various planted trees from its time as a caravan camp provided enough clues to be able to recognise them, such as buds and leaf-scars on Horse-chestnut, catkins and last-year’s cones on Alder and the diamond-marked bark of White Poplar. And no mistaking the Dog Roses with its fearsome array of thorns!

Devoid of leaves, the shrubs also showed the fascinating array of other wildlife, including  Sunburst Lichen, always one to brighten a dull day, and Sea-buckthorn Bracket-fungus. An old friend, we found this infected tree last year, but so far as we are aware this is the only example of the species anywhere in Essex.

So, ‘Birdwatching for Beginners’ and a whole lot more – we don’t have any truck with the nonsense of taking a blinkered approach to the diverse wonders of Nature! And as if to underline that, just as this blog was being posted, there arrived from the organiser of the walk the attached list of pretty much everything we saw Wildlife recorded, birds and all: a good all-round day of wildlife and weather, and a splendid lunch in the Anchor!

 

 

The Wild Side of Beth Chatto Gardens: rest and recovery…

It is a truth universally acknowledged, that green space and nature are good for health, heart, soul and mind. Never more needed than after our first bout of Covid: as soon as we felt able, it was out to feel the recuperative effects of Spring, even if lingering post-viral fatigue made it feel like wading through treacle…

Bulbs of course are at their best in the gardens now and for the next month:

But other perennials are starting to add their form and colours to Nature’s palette:

So too the early-flowering shrubs, each wafting its own unique scent into into the air.  ‘Well-scented’ is the order of the season: given the expected temperatures, they do have to throw whatever they can into their attraction to pollinators.

And of course, in doing so giving us the chance to explore the effects of Covid. The good news is that any olfactory damping seems to be over, with only the spicy aroma of Witch-hazel proving difficult. But I find that a bit evanescent and elusive at the best of times…

Despite still-freezing overnight temperatures a few insects were out, from ladybirds nestling in the Euphorbia heads to Honeybees raiding the open nectar-vats of Winter Aconites. And, true to its name, a male Spring Usher moth…

Otherwise, it was time to appreciate the less flouncy and blowsy garden features. Lichens are never better to see than when there are no leaves on the trees…

… and the various natural adornments we love to see, from fascinating leaf-distortions on Bergenia, to the signs of vital natural senescence on Red Oak …

—and returning to the Bergenia, the slug munch-holes that we (as a garden that sells itself as ‘ecological and sustainable’) should wear as a badge of pride!

#WildEssex Walks: Trees in winter – buds, bark and more…

A beautiful January day saw an interested group of tree fans on King George V field in Wivenhoe, looking at How to ID Trees in Winter from Bark and Buds. This area is now a well-used and loved playing field/recreation area and wild flower meadow, but was originally the grounds of the former Wivenhoe Hall. This explains the rather formal planting and ‘exotic’ trees in amongst the natives. The clear blue sky was a perfect back drop to clearly see the silhouettes of trees, the shapes of branches and outlines of buds. Together with these pointers, bark patterns and fallen leaves and fruits are useful diagnostic tools when deciding identification of trees at a time of year when leaves and fruits are not visible on the tree itself.

This blog uses photos from last year’s walk, together with some taken today.

ASH – in addition to its unmistakeable black buds, mostly in opposite pairs, with flattened twig tips, Ash also has smooth, pale bark, often covered in lichens, and usually (though not in the specimen we examined) some of the bunches of keys from last summer perched in its boughs.

OAK – the plump, chestnut-coloured buds are clustered at the tips of the twigs that arise from the branches that come from the trunk, which is covered in deeply ridged bark, the fissures more or less continuous, running down the trunk. Sometimes, in older specimens, the trunk is divided, by coppicing or pollarding, especially on old ownership boundaries where distinctive trees were used to define those boundaries legally, by way of a ‘perambulation’; some older specimens are characterized by ‘epicormic growth’ sprouting out of the bark (below, right).

BEECH (below, left) and HORNBEAM (below, middle and right) – the elongate, pointed shape of the buds of these two species is similar, but those of Beech are set at an angle to the twig, while those of Hornbeam are curved into (appressed to) the twig.  Beech often has dead leaves still attached in midwinter (Marcescence – Wikipedia), and smooth, silvery bark, with raised lines, rounded in profile, running down it. Hornbeam bark is similarly smooth, but the trunk is usually fluted, like a rippling muscle (indeed it is known as Musclewood in the USA).

And then to three fast-growing, often small species, good at colonising suitable habitats:

WILD CHERRY has clusters of buds borne on short, woody pedestals, and peeling, copper-coloured bark formed into distinct hoops around the trunk…

… while SILVER BIRCH has lovely white bark, delicately drooping branch tips, and often has remnants of last year’s seeding catkins at the same time as the coming summer’s catkins are starting to emerge…

 

… and ELDER has deeply ridged grey bark, often covered with mosses. It is also the first of our trees to burst into leaf, a true harbinger of Spring.

ELM is often distinguished as much by its dead stems, the victims of Dutch Elm Disease, as by its living features. But on a living trunk, the herringbone branching pattern of the twigs is usually apparent, as often are the main branches clothed in corky wings of bark.

Another tree bedevilled by disease is HORSE CHESTNUT, especially worrying in view of its rarity in its native Caucasus. The big, swollen buds with sticky scales are well known, but the horseshoe-shaped leaf-scars and smooth bark breaking into a patchwork of plates are equally distinctive.

Similar in name, but very different (and completely unrelated), the SWEET CHESTNUT is often noticeable by its halo of dead leaves lying on the ground, as they take several months to decay away. Its plump buds sit on ‘shelves’ on the ridged twigs, and the bark of a small tree is smooth and silvery, in marked contrast to an older tree  where the bark is strongly fissured, twisting around the trunk.

One of most distinctive winter trees is SYCAMORE with its smooth, grey bark, large, turgid buds, almost fit to burst, and beautiful bud-scales,  edged in maroon and fringed in white

Finally, mention must be made of the evergreens, historic adornments to the grounds of the former Wivenhoe Hall. The red-boughed SCOTS’ PINE (below, left) is one of only three native conifers in Britain, CEDAR-OF-LEBANON (below, right) is another species threatened in its native Middle Eastern home, and HOLM OAK (bottom), native to the Mediterranean basin. The latter is especially noticeable this winter from the crunching underfoot of its acorns, the result of one of its periodic ‘mast years’, perhaps likely to become more frequent in the era of climate collapse.

 

But the presence of leaves or needles doesn’t necessarily make identification easier: it is always worth getting to know their distinctive fruits, tree shapes and bark. No rest for the botanist, even in midwinter, but help will soon be at hand with the forthcoming ‘British & Irish Wild Flowers and Plants Pocket Guide, hopefully to be published late Spring/Summer.

And what of wildlife other than the trees? Insects were not the focus today (precious few about in the cold wind!), but were couldn’t help notice rather impressive clutches of shiny black eggs on a twig…we think these are probably eggs of the Black Bean Aphid.

Otherwise, the Mistletoe on a Buckeye tree looked magnificent against its blue backdrop, and the now-ripened berries of Ivy were a reassuring sight for our birds, should this winter still have a sting in its tail…!