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Furze Hill, Mistley: home to the Ancients

Anyone looking for a walk on the wild side might like to head north to Mistley. After park at the Village Hall, or just a short walk from Mistley Station, you are on Furze Hill, named presumably from the blaze of Gorse flowering on the gravel-topped slopes overlooking the Stour Estuary – at least in former times.

Part of the parkland associated with Mistley Hall, it is now remarkable for its numerous ancient, gnarled Oak trees, each a wildlife habitat, natural sculpture, and source of legend. With last year’s leaves blown to the ground floor by winter winds and the new season’s offering yet to unfold, March is possibly the best time of year to appreciate their full, magnificent glory.

These trees could tell many stories, but we can read some of them. The woodland which envelops many of the veterans is a relatively new feature. Widely-spread branching patterns of the oldest trees tell of a time when they were developing out in the open, in fact in a deer park, the bounds of which are easily seen on the Chapman & André Map of 1777. And the lowest branches above head height suggest they are pollards, long since abandoned, signs of Mediaeval multitasking, working the land for timber and aristocratic deer hunting at the same time.

Pride of place goes to Old Knobbley, the tree with its own Twitter account @OldKnobbley. Largest, perhaps oldest of the Ancients, it is also the most abused. At maybe 800 years of age, it deserves more respect than shown by the mindless idiots who set it alight a month ago. But such things have happened before; hopefully it will cling on to life, and continue to be a focus for local myths, including possible connections (possibly more in hope than truth) with the nefarious activities of Matthew Hopkins.

Signs of Spring in WildWivenhoe, Part 7

 

Normal service is restored! After a week of deep snow and fearsome Siberian winds, Spring is once again proceeding apace. Just three days of above-freezing temperatures and the ‘Beast from the East’ is but a distant memory, except of course for the birds needing to make up for condition they lost when their food was frozen up. And while catching up they are still vulnerable – a decapitated Snipe on Lower Lodge, probably a Peregrine kill, was testament to that.

Snow melt has replenished the springs along the valley slopes of the Colne, perhaps even over-replenished them. Pools and rivulets have appeared in unexpected places, but already the Frogs have found them. Whether these temporary spates will last long enough to see the tadpoles complete their development remains to be seen.

The woodland floor, before the snow with barely a green shoot, is transformed with the new emerald-shot leaves of sprouting Cow Parsley, seeking the light in the brief window before the tree leaf canopy closes. Already leaf buds are bursting, Hazel starting to unfurl as the female flowers fade, whether through frosting or fertilisation, while the flower buds of Willow reveal the silky catkins, soon to become a magnet for early-emerging insects. And shining like a beacon, a clump of Orange Brain Fungus speaks of the rich array of colours coming to our woodland vista over the next few weeks….

Retreat of the Beast…

Down on the river, water birds have been struggling with the Beast from the East: when mudflats freeze, their food is ice-bound. And as bad, if not worse, the severe wind chill means they must feed as much as possible, wherever possible, so that they turn up in strange places. Although the freeze is now lifting, the parameters remain altered for now.

Avocets are frequently seen over Wivenhoe river frontage, and feeding both downriver and upriver. But rarely see them feeding off West Quay, like this one today. Also numerous Black-tailed Godwits, where there have been fewer than usual this winter; Grey and Ringed Plovers, normally most numerous in the outer estuary; and a single Spotted Redshank – one of the few winterers, or an early spring migrant?

Signs of Spring in WildWivenhoe, Part 6: Arrival of ‘The Beast’

Maybe it wasn’t quite as severe (yet?) as some of the forecasts, but the Beast from the East arrived on cue, blanketing us in a few centimetres of snow overnight, with heavy flurries on and off through the day, all accompanied by penetratingly cold winds. A landscape transformed, and a soundscape too, familiar sounds muffled or absent, Mother Earth hunkered down under her duvet.

Surely Spring is on hold too? Not at all: now we are nearly in March the afternoon sun carries quite some heat, and when sheltered from the chill Siberian wind, is enough to melt the snow, revealing the flowers of Alder. Male catkins, wafting their pollen into the breeze, have been strutting their stuff for a couple of weeks now, while the insignificant receptive females are just emerging, the pollen ultimately to transform them into next winter’s food for Siskins and Redpolls.

And then twenty-four hours on, more snow overnight has continued the transformation: the view from our eyrie in Wivenhoe Shipyard is nothing short of magical.

 

Signs of Spring in WildWivenhoe, Part 5

As the meteorologists’ Spring approaches, we head out to Villa Wood, part of the Cockaynes Wood Reserve, at first light, feet crunching icy puddles. Sunrise now before 7AM: as soon as it rises high enough to penetrate the trees and illuminate the interior, the stark beauty of a bare woodland unfolds before us.

Paradoxically perhaps, one of the defining features of a good, living woodland is death, dead wood being recycled by the actions of innumerable decay organisms, from wood-boring beetles to fungi and bacteria. And Villa Wood has dead wood in abundance, together with the decayers. Perennial fungi, King Alfred’s Cakes and Turkey-tail for example, are always to be found, but one of its real specialities appears, and dramatically so, only in early Spring – Scarlet Elf-cup.


Each time I spot it, I get that thrill of incongruity, the splash of vivid red against a backdrop of muted brown leaf-mould. And remember the time, now thirty years ago, I first spied it here, then the only known site in north-east Essex. I had been invited in by the gravel company to give my thoughts on what they might do for wildlife…once they had destroyed (quite legally) most of the ancient woodland. Well, at least the pits are now managed for wildlife, Villa Wood still features the delightful meandering course of Sixpenny Brook, and has its complement of Elf-cups, seemingly increasing year on year. What I didn’t notice all those years ago was the bark of trees becoming covered in orange, a terrestrial alga called Trentepohlia: such sights are becoming ever more familiar as the climate changes before our eyes.

Down by the Brook, flower buds on the carpets of Golden-saxifrage have still to burst, but the first Lesser Celandines have made it, while Hazels in the understorey and Elms in the hedges are in profuse flower.

We expect the Golden-saxifrage to be at its best in mid-March, a couple of weeks time….unless the  forecast fury of the ‘Beast from the East’ ushers in Spring with a blanket of snow. For our birds then, it is good to see the Ivy berries now ripe. Flowering late and so fruiting late, Ivy berries are one of the few remaining natural food sources available at this time of year: a plant to celebrate, not destroy, and one which can only grow in importance as our climate tumbles into human-driven chaos.

One Misty, Moisty Morning…

No pretence at searching for Signs of Spring on today’s walk, just revelling in the fleeting splendour of the here-and-now on Barrier Marsh. A very cold night, the ground frozen hard, but the air starting to warm. Frost turning to drips on the Tamarisk, and mist trapped in an inversion layer, its base almost solid just above our heads.

The marsh itself looking in super condition. Surface water splashes, iced over today, will hopefully remain for a month or two yet. When the Garganey start to move through from Africa, this is where they might well pitch down for a few days. Or even longer, mingling with the breeding Redshank and Lapwing…we can but dream. But the improved management on the marsh, retaining water where and when it is needed, rather than its lifeblood draining out with the tide, give hope that such dreams one day could become reality…

Signs of Spring in WildWivenhoe, Part 4

They say the camera never lies. But it doesn’t always tell the whole truth….
Today’s pictures might seem to be firmly rooted in the Colne winter, with big, cold skies, waders and ducks, and frost. Real frost on buttercup leaves, and lichens frosting the branches of Blackthorn, as yet not festooned with flowers.

But aside from the purely visual, Spring was in the air this morning. Curlews now bubbling more than whelping; pairing Shelducks, their pas-de-deux accompanied by gentle, companionable quacking; Skylarks and Reed Buntings in full song. Polar opposites on the vocal spectrum, both are gold medallists, Skylarks for freestyle flamboyance, Reed Buntings for metronomic precision.

First light on Barrier Marsh: ideal conditions to see its structure and interpret its history. Thrown into relief by the low sunrays, and contrast enhanced by light frosting, thousands of ant-hills in the central section spoke of long, undisturbed development, whereas either end has clearly been levelled, and in part ploughed in the past. The ants are reclaiming the flatlands, but to build a big anthill takes many decades.

   

 

Signs of Spring in WildWivenhoe, Part 3

   

Still in the grip of frosty mornings, into Wivenhoe Wood we ventured. From frozen earth and crystal-clad grass to slithery mud – good Essex mud – despite the lack of foliage, the mere presence of trees sufficient to create an insulating blanket over the ground. And good for the Moles, needing to feed on earthworms through the winter and therefore seeking out ground less prone to freezing.

Two of the earliest promises of spring, buds of Honeysuckle and Bluebells spearing the leaf-mould, have been evident since before the Solstice, but now their pregnant swelling is bursting forth. And Holly Leaf-miners are resuming their internal munching, protected from the cold still further within the tough coat of Holly leaf. Thus insulated from the vagaries of the climate, the grubs will be an abundant, reliable, and well-signposted food for Blue Tit chicks in a couple of months’ time.

A Great Spotted Woodpecker drummed loudly in the still air, and a noisy party of five Siskins demolished their way through the seed-filled cones of an Alder. But most striking of all, almost luminescent in vivid orange against a backdrop of earthen browns, patches of Golden Jelly-fungus growing out of dead twigs, like a beacon….

Signs of Spring in WildWivenhoe, Part 2

After the very spring-like weekend, it was almost inevitable that winter would show its teeth again. Snow yesterday, but today deep, penetrating frost, producing a magical landscape for those of us out and about just after sunrise.

Whether a shimmering cloak on the ground or the filigree fingers of frost entwining and embracing the dormant vegetation, such mornings are a delight  and inspiration for any photographer.



And never despair, the signs of spring are still there. Birdsong, triggered more by day length than temperature, is swelling by the day. Around Ferry Marsh, Great Tits and Dunnocks really going for it, to a backdrop of distant Skylark, and our newest resident a Cetti’s Warbler exclaiming his almost angry song, unseen, deep in the scrubby reeds. But a second bird, silent save for a guttural croak, moving through the hedge-line, and showing itself surprisingly well: could that have been a female, searching for a nest site?

Signs of Spring in Wild Wivenhoe

The signs are there! Buds swelling, the first flowers bursting, and insects emerging…while we may still be plunged into the depths of cold, all it takes is a little bit of sun to stir Spring into life.

Along Cutthroat Lane today, the Butcher’s Broom flowers – small, unassuming, but beautiful – are bursting from their buds in the centres of the sharply pointed ‘leaves’; while the berries from the class of 2017 shine bright even in the deepest shade.

Although not everything red and shiny is part of the plant: Seven Spot Ladybirds are emerging from their winter torpor to take up their task of making inroads into aphid populations.

The first Red Dead-nettles are flowering, a favourite source of food for the first bumblebees..

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…while on Barrier Marsh, damp hollows are filling up with the newly-germinated rosettes of the annual Hairy Buttercup.

An escape from cultivation, Greater Periwinkle is starting to flower in hedgebanks now. Often mistaken for its smaller relative the Lesser Periwinkle, to separate them look for the fringe of hairs round the edge of Greater’s leaves…

Meanwhile, Gorse is blooming as it always is (‘When Gorse is in flower, kissing’s in season’), although the sun’s heat isn’t yet sufficient to release the coconut fragrance. But they do look lovely, especially mingled with the hairy, almost singed-looking buds.

And Hazel, tantalising with its promise of Spring since before Christmas, is still going strong, the dangling male catkins releasing pollen, while the tiny red female flowers await their fate on the wind.

Late autumn in West Cork: the calm after the storms

Nowhere are you more at the mercy of the elements than at the extremities of our islands. Two days before our visit, Storm Brian swept through, and just a week prior to that ex-Hurricane Ophelia left her ferocious mark on the landscape, still very apparent during our stay.

But after the storms came the calm. A pool of still, saturated anticyclonic air lay over county Cork for the whole of our visit. Gloom, mist and fog, sometimes coalescing into rain: the air, the land and the sea merged imperceptibly but firmly, the common element being water. Still, what would Ireland be without water?

   

This weather didn’t make for easy wildlife watching. Landscapes were best described as ‘atmospheric’; the few remaining flowers were storm-battered and wind-burnt, and always studded with reflective droplets of water.

  

Of course, transatlantic hurricanes often carry involuntary waifs from distant shores, and this was no exception. A Gray-cheeked Thrush from America had pitched down close to our hotel in Rosscarbery, and was duly ticked, with the help of the thankfully small group of twitchers. But for us at least, the waterbirds on the estuary – Black-tailed Godwits and Curlews, Redshanks and Greenshanks, Grey Herons and Little Egrets among many others – were a more satisfying spectacle, along with several Mediterranean Gulls in the gull flocks, and Choughs overhead, just to confirm we were no longer in Essex. But best of all, just off the harbour wall, five Great Northern Divers, only just starting to lose their summer plumage, were simply stunning, as they made inroads into the local crab population.      

Elsewhere, a boat trip to Garnish Island in Bantry Bay, produced ‘Black’ Guillemots in their white winter garb and a couple of White-tailed Eagles, huge but bedraggled (yes, it was raining!) from the local reintroduction scheme. And many Grey Seals, mostly hauled out on rocky islets, were of course in their element, oblivious to the weather. The gardens on the island must be magnificent at more favourable times of the year, but a Treecreeper hunting for insects and spiders on the moss-covered walls, Wallcreeper-fashion, was about all we could muster.

When all else fails, however, the ‘world within’, the bugs and beasties that make the world go round, always come up with the goods, especially when I have Jude and her amazing close-up vision (aka myopia) at my side! Even through rain-smeared optics, I learned that woodlice moult in two halves, a few days apart, and then came face to face for the first time with our largest centipede Stigmatogaster subterraneus. In the semi-arid south-east of England, such sights need searching for, under bark or stones; here they were in full show on the stone walls and tree trunks.

  

Add to that a proliferation of fungi and lichens, and our short time there was put to good use, helped along by our ‘three stout challenge’. Our unanimous verdict was that Murphys is better than Beamish, and both come above Guinness in the taste-test…although that may need further research and confirmation the next time we venture down the Wild Atlantic Way!

 

The Devil has all the best tunes…

 

The Devil has all the best tunes…

A couple of weeks ago, I had an unfamiliar experience. I was kept awake all night by my phone buzzing, indicating one of my tweets was being shared and commented upon around the world. The subject? A wonderful, smelly, alien-looking fungus – the Devil’s Fingers.

The tweet in question:

https://twitter.com/chrismothman1/status/901084309494300672

Alerted to its occurrence near Colchester by a Twitter contact @MushroomTable, Devil’s Fingers now ranks high as one of my most exciting wildlife sightings ever. Not native to the UK, this Antipodean monster arrived in Britain around a century ago, its spores having reached our shores it is believed either via the horticultural trade or perhaps on the tyres of military vehicles. It has been established since then in climatically-favoured parts of the south-west, but is now evidently spreading, perhaps yet another indicator of climate change.

Why it attracted so much interest is not difficult to see – it is a very striking species – but what interested me was the extent to which it captured the attention of the Twittersphere. By now, it has gathered nearly 21,000 page impressions, of which more than 2,000 viewers engaged with it. 274 likes, 84 retweets, 21 replies – by a very long way the most popular tweet I have ever posted. Perhaps more significantly, it encouraged 75 viewers to look into my profile, and (at least temporarily) I gained around 30 new followers. Of course, whether those followers will stick with me is a different matter: when they realise that much of my Twitter activity is around sharing my concerns about the horrors of Brexit, should it happen, and highlighting human abuses to animals and the natural world generally, some have and will no doubt continue to drop away. But for that I make no apologies: those issues are important to me and part of my very being. And on that point, I have noticed a lot more interest in my more political tweets subsequently.

Responses to the tweet came from all corners of the globe, from Costa Rica to Japan. Most were broadly positive: Wow’, ‘Awesome’, ‘Sometimes life just gives you a special day’; others, perhaps not surprisingly, were more appreciative in a horror movie sort of way: Gruesome’, ‘Creepy’, ‘That’s why fungi freak me out’. Whatever the response, any reaction is a reaction, hopefully helping to raise awareness of the fragile wonders of our world…